Replacing 2 port valve BGMVSP-9

[Richard Smith12345]

The 2 port valve is sticking a bit open and hardly moves when heating is switched on. The only way to get the central heating to switch off is to kill the power. Due to the obvious defect I can see with the 2 port valve, I think this is causing the issue.

Would anyone tend to agree or disagree with this?

If I am to replace, do I have to buy the whole unit or can I just replace the top part and leave the water part alone?

Also finally if I do need to drain down and replace, is there a similar valve that I can buy to install as I cannot find anyone selling these?

Thanks in advance,

Richard.

 

[45yearsagasman]

The BGSMVSP is a rebranded one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-za5-679-2-2-port-motorised-valve-22mm/32455

I would replace it with one of these..https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-v4043h-2-port-motorised-valve-22mm/31480

From your description it does sound like your existing valve is passing, and replacing the whole valve would require a drain down. The wiring is the same.

 

[oldbuffer]

You could try un-clipping the head of the existing valve, and trying to turn the spindle by hand. It should only turn about 20 degrees from fully open to fully closed, but that movement should be free but not sloppy.

If the valve itself appears to be OK, you could try buying the Drayton ZA5 and just replace the head. If this works, then you won't need to drain down and replace the whole valve. However, in my opinion the Honeywell valve is generally better made, but you would definitely have to drain down to change the whole valve. From memory, the Honeywell nuts have different threads from the Drayton, so you would also have to change the nuts and olives. You only have to drain down to just below the level of the valve, so if it is in an upstairs airing cupboard you should be able to get away with only draining down the upstairs radiators. It might be worth changing the inhibitor, in which case you might want to drain down fully and include the hot water primary circuit.

 

[Richard Smith12345]

Thanks for your replies. I have tried freeing this off by spraying the mechanism with WD and working it in and out whilst the little man turned it on and off. Was getting a bit freer but then the little plastic handle bust off! However if i can get the actuator off, i will probably be able to get it free. Only issue here is whether i can get it off without a drain down. If i do need to drain the system for the cost of a new one, and the risk of it gunging up again i will probably buy a new one.

 

[Richard Smith12345]

So the system is now working again. I seem to have resolved it by accident. Was looking for a way of getting the actuator off and got hold off what i thought was the clip to release it from the valve. Turns out it was part of the actual switch and by pushing it firmly it seemed to re-engage with something. Everything works again. I will probably have to have a look at this a bit more in the warmer months but the winter crisis seems to have been averted for now and at no cost, which being a tight yorkshire man pleases me immensely.
Thanks to Oldbuffer and 45yearsgasman for their replies- really useful forum.
Richard.

 

[ReganAndCarter]

t, which being a tight yorkshire man pleases me immensely.

A Yorkshireman is just a Scotsman with all the generosity taken out. (A Yorkshireman actually told me this )