Replacing a 3 way switch with a 1 way

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Hi

When our bedroom is finished , we will only need a 1 way switch , which controls two wall lights , there was a 3 way which controlled some bed side lights , which are now removed , not sure what the 3rd switch controlled as from moving in , in never turned anything on

How do i make safe the cables i will no longer need , when installing the 1 way switch please?

Thanks

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Hi, you would appear to have a second switch position in the room ? As there are two way cables on at least 2 switches.

DS
 
Hi , yes , sorry , there was a switch on the wall the side of the bedside lights , this has been removed also , made safe etc
 
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OK, the circuit you want to retain is it two way ?

DS


Im not sure on the question , sorry, but we only need/want one switch to control both wall lights

Not much help , i know

I`ll admit defeat and stump up for a sparky if i have to , but was hoping to be able to do it myself if at all possible , if you guys have the patience
 
he means is the switch you want to retain controlled elsewhere? or just at this one position?

I thought thats what DS meant at first but thought i was being dim , no , the switch we want to keep , is not controlled from anywhere else , just this position , as i say , one switch of the three seemed to turn nothing on and off , and the 3rd , worked the bedside lights
 
Your first image showing the switch with the red links across com terminals can be removed, this also does suggest that you have only one permanent live entering the backbox (this would need to be confirmed via test).

You need to identify the cables that controls the lights that are or will be operating the remaining wall lights and the cable that supplying the permanent live to the backbox. Again this is best done via continuity tests, then voltage test using the appropriate two pole equipment.
It would also at this time be logical to prove that the earth path exists as this will help with these tests.
Once you have ID/proved these cables, you can then connect the circuit to the switch. Terminating perm live to com/L of switch and the switch wire going to light at L1, if the switch is metallic, then te aerth should be connected to the switch plate and best practice is then to fit a pigtail link between earth of switch and backbox earth terminal. At this point when energising the remaining/redundant cables must be tested to prove the are dead. If that test proves satisfactory, these cables can be terminated in to a connector block together and left or you can consider removing them completely. Whilst doing the above, also work on the circuit whilst dead when removing and terminating cables. This must be proved by a two pole voltage indicator not a test screwdriver or a non-contact voltage pen/stick.
 
OK, is it the middle switch in the pic ?


Switch wiring

com = Live from supply
L1 = Not used
L2 = Light

All 3 switches are identical.

ALL redundant cables MUST be made safe.


Regards,

DS[/b]
 
If i do ask a sparky to fit a switch for me in the end , regardless of anything else , is an MK single gang single switch ok to use?
 
Take you're time and just think about it before you start.

You only connect 2 wires to the new switch. Look at the back of the 3 gang switch, its just 3 1 gangs :eek:


Yes MK is fine .As has been said, if metal plate you must earth it.

Regards,

DS
 

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