My 1930's 9 inch solid wall house has a rotten timber lintel downstairs above me kitchen window, the opening is 56". How many acro's and strong boys will I need to hold the wall up when I pull out the thing? and what is me best choice of lintel?
replacing a wooden lintel
- Thread starter DIYedboy
- Start date
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Have you got cambered half brick arch on facework, straight soldier arch sitting on windwo frame or brickwork running straight over top of frame. Is frame timber, UVPC and how much is frame recessed into reveal.Is rotten timber bressmur, 75x100mm.
old un.
old un.
One strongboy will do. No need for needles if you're only replacing the external lintel.
As the wall is rendered, just use a 6' 6''x4'' concrete lintle
As the wall is rendered, just use a 6' 6''x4'' concrete lintle
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Thats why I asked the questions, because not for one moment did I think it was external lintel. Have never know timber bressumer to be fitted as external lintel. One more question, have you got a kitchen unit under window that would be easy to move.
Makes the difference between strong boy or needle.
old un.
Makes the difference between strong boy or needle.
old un.
Oldun, you're dead on the money there, I have a soddin kitchen sink dead underneath, so I expect to have to wrestle that out before I start (units need to be replaced anyway). But what does Bressumer mean? (scuse me ignorance).
It's a timber supporting beam.
The young man from Derry is correct. It is a very very old word, and have just noticed I have spelt it wrong. It should read bressummer and it is contracted from the word breastsummer. It is between two to four timbers coupled together to form support beam.
If the sink unit will come out without to much problem, then slip one strong boy in.
If sink unit a problem then knock header out above bressummer and arch, acrow each side and 100x75mm needle. Pick lump 100x75mm about 1.2m long with no knots, and keep acrow as near to unit as you can and as near as poss to outside wall to reduce length of needle. Jack up acrows until they just bite. Stick nail through acrow into needle.
Do the least banging about poss in getting old bressummer out. If it is bedded then stitch drill beds and joints up side, clean out with plugging chisel and bressummer should drop down and out.
Slip either 65x100 or 140x100 pre stressed con lintel in with brickwork as required above. If bricks have got frogs, fill frogs to top course before slipping them in.
Next day either pack with slate or full fill with semi dry sand cement.
old un.
If the sink unit will come out without to much problem, then slip one strong boy in.
If sink unit a problem then knock header out above bressummer and arch, acrow each side and 100x75mm needle. Pick lump 100x75mm about 1.2m long with no knots, and keep acrow as near to unit as you can and as near as poss to outside wall to reduce length of needle. Jack up acrows until they just bite. Stick nail through acrow into needle.
Do the least banging about poss in getting old bressummer out. If it is bedded then stitch drill beds and joints up side, clean out with plugging chisel and bressummer should drop down and out.
Slip either 65x100 or 140x100 pre stressed con lintel in with brickwork as required above. If bricks have got frogs, fill frogs to top course before slipping them in.
Next day either pack with slate or full fill with semi dry sand cement.
old un.
No prob oldun, I've just circular sawed the worktop so sink n unit beneath will just 'fly' out, n in will go the strong boy.
Out of interest, I had thought of drilling a 2" hole with a core drill right thru the wall above the brick arch, puttin a scaffold pole thru this and then acroing each end of the pole ( this would save all that bashing out to put in the timber needle) whatd'ya reckon?
Out of interest, I had thought of drilling a 2" hole with a core drill right thru the wall above the brick arch, puttin a scaffold pole thru this and then acroing each end of the pole ( this would save all that bashing out to put in the timber needle) whatd'ya reckon?
You can use a good putlog, but you will have to make up two timber blocks with a deep V slot for putlog to sit in to stop putlog sliding of top of acrow. Metal to metal. No friction. Nail blocks to head of acrow.
old un.
old un.
Stuart, Thanks for the input, Still not sure of spelling. Some books use one m, other books use two ms.
Think it depends on what time you leave the pub.
old un.
Think it depends on what time you leave the pub.
old un.
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