Replacing Consumer unit advice

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Hi there,

I am hoping some one can give me some advice I have just moved into a house built 1965/66 and it has an old fusebox.

I have had two quotes for updating the fusebox to a 10 way Consumer Unit. The existing fusebox is next to the kitchen under the stairs, it is very old fashioned.

The first quote has come in at £350 for replacing just the consumer unit but the guy did say that this might highlight further problems with the electrics that need addressing, but he thought that the electrics looked ok.

The second quote is for £550 +VAT which includes the Consumer Unit, Earthing cable for the water pipe under the sink and I assume the gas meter piping (which is approx 1m from the existing fusebox) and a NIC EIC certificate and a Part P Certificate, this is 1 man and 1 improver for 8 hours.

Does the second quote sound excessive?

Am I allowed? and is it straight forward to run earth cable under the kitchen to the new consumer once fitted or does this need to be completed by a Part P certified electrician? I have added spurs in previous properties and changed sockets etc.. so my level is basic DIY capability and I don't want to fall foul of regulations and I want it doing properly and I accept that I am not an electrician.

I think you hear so many stories about being over charged etc and it makes you cynical of anyone, even the good guys out there!

What would be a good price for the work and does the earthing need doing as well?

Thank you in advance
 
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Am I allowed? and is it straight forward to run earth cable under the kitchen to the new consumer once fitted

I personally dont do domestic work.
But Afaik you are allowed to upgrade bonding yourself obviously if you know what your doing.

Electricians though should not carry out certain electrical work UNTIL AFTER that bonding is sufficient, either done by themselves or you
 
I would check if spark 2 (the more expensive one) is going to to all the tests BEFORE he changes the fuse board - that way, if there are problems, then you'll know in advance and can agree a price in advance (or put the changeover on hold if it's really bad.

This is what I do for my customers

It sounds like spark 1 (the cheaper one) may be warning you that once the new board is in, there might be extra work to do to stop it tripping - and extra £ to pay him/her of course! And this might include the bonding to gas and water, which must be done for the fuse board change. Will you get certs from spark 1?
 
Thank you for all the replies.

I haven't had a written quotation from sparky 1 yet... Don't worry I will. He didn't mention any certificates...

He just said the consumer unit would need replacing. When he was talking about any problems he was talking in terms of the circuits. It sounds like sparky 2 would be doing things properly and sparky 1 not replacing the earth bonding, making it cheaper but cutting a corner.

Do you think sparky 2 quote is OK? Do the certificates cost money? I figured about £150 for consumer unit and 50 for earth cable bonding etc.. So £400 for labour seems steep? Esp when adding on vat.
 
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Typical yorkshireman begrudging a tradesman an honest days living. :rolleyes:

You've forgotten things like meter tails from your materials price.

Even if you are being charged £400 for a days labour, don't for one second think that's straight into the tradesmans pocket.

Out of your £400 he has to pay his apprentice.
Then he has to cover:
The time spent driving to, and from, and looking at your job.
The time spent driving to the wholesalers to purchase the materials for your job.
The time sat at home preparing your quotation, your invoice, your certificates, notifying the job to LABC.
Part of the profit he's made will then go to paying for:
Buying, maintaining, taxing, MOTing, insuring, and fueling his van.
Professional scheme membership (NICEIC)
PL & PI insurance
Accountant fees
Purchase and annual calibration of his test kit
Puchase of his power and hand tools
Purchase of work clothes
I could go on and on and on if you like.

Oh and then what ever's left after all that, the tax man takes his 20% and only then is your electrician finally left with his wage to pay his morgage with and feed his family.
 
Hey I'm really sorry I think you misunderstand me i know sparkys have to go through a lot of training, years being an apprentice. I don't begrudge any one an honest days wage. I just want to know what I should be paying I admit I have no idea what materials cost or what labour is involved.
 
Agreed

Also... The bonding to the water and gas. This must be done before or during the CU change and not after.a
All test results done (that will be certificated) are reliant on the value of the earthing at the time test was done. Also, at that time, the bonding has be to today's standards.

So its not an add on after the event.
The electrician may dock some ££ off if you undertake to run the bonding conductor for him to subsequently test and connect.
 
I think £550 is a good price to be honest.
Spark 1 maybe using a £50 BG board whereas spark B may be using a £100 MK board.

I would not let the customer do the bonding run as I would want to ensure that it installed correctly and a single run.
Some problems do arise on a CU change when using RCDs for the first time especially the old borrowed neutral on the lights so best be prepared for it.
 

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