Consumer units

[tmansteve]

Hi All

We are going to remove a gas cooker and replace with electric. The fusebox is quite full. Can I add a new consumer unit to go alonside the existing one or should I replace the old one with a larger unit. I'm not sure about this and don't want to be ripped off.

Any help will be gratefully received.

Steve

 

[sbullet]

Adda new one . The MK from screwfix for 68 quid shoul dbe OK and has plenty of MCBs and RCD and 100 A main fuse. The only reason i know this is cos I needed to get one for my house. I did the research and looks like this is the best buy. I would suggest buying it yourself and get an electrician to fit it. Seems that electrcians charge you more for the unit than you would pay. A typical quote is 250 which INCLUDES the box so you are looking to pay 170 in labour. They will probably say you need to upgrade the earth bonding which is another 120 quid. Alternatively get a mate who can do it which is allowed. i have read Part P. You can do any DIY you want but some need to be submitted to building control. Just dont tell them. Who would know!!!

 

[sm1thson]

sparks like to fit what they are used to, so (as a general rule) dont buy the equipment for your spark to fit.

have you got details of your existing setup as that will help the decision, pictures would be best.

 

[sbullet]

Fair point. i am no spark but I sometime wonder if they are taking advantage of Part P???

 

[tmansteve]

Thanks for the info. Very interesting. Will try and get some photos to post. It's a very old system with about 7 fuses. The problem is that I have a electric shower, there will be a electric cooker and then all the lights and other things. will get a new box and try and get someone to fit it without too much cost.

Thanks to all

 

[SparkyMarky]

You can do any DIY you want but some need to be submitted to building control. Just dont tell them. Who would know!!!

Words fail me.

 

[sbullet]

What? Have I said something wrong?

 

[sm1thson]

What? Have I said something wrong?

whilst I may turn a blind eye to small departures from part P when the other boxes are ticked, you just blatantly encouraged someone to break the law (i think part p is law?) on something that could potentially cause a lethal hazard to every circuit in their house.

 

[scousespark]

Absolutely stunning. I am a practicing electrician, not a diyer so bear with me.

First off I supply and fit and guarantee all my work (including parts). I don't want the hassle of supporting stuff I didn't buy. Most of the sparks I know work the same way.

As for the price of a board change, the cost covers the knowledge and experience I have gained doing the job as a professional. Charging £200 a day labour is not extortionate.

I don't really care if somebody recommends that the original poster ignores Part-P, but am staggered that he is being given advice to proceed with a job that could present danger to him and his family.

Steve, I would suggest you get some quotes from local part-P approved sparks to see what they are charging. They will be better placed to advise on what you need to do.

 

[BobbyBreakit]

The way I understand the rules if you were to buy a bigger CU so you can incorporate the new cooker circuit then the whole installation fed from that board would need to be tested, where as adding an additional CU just for the cooker would mean only the new installtion needed testing, obviously you would need a means of connecting into the existing supply from the meter involving new seals or maybe you are lucky enough to have a main switch

 

[Spark123]

True, would probably use henley blocks if possible. Don't forget the existing equipotential/earth bonding will also need to be checked + upgraded if necessary and the mains supply checked to see if it is adequate for the additional load.

 

[sbullet]

All fair points. Just offered some not very well thought out advice and you should really get a qualified elec in or a the least notify once you have had the work done by someone who knows what they are doing. I have been getting quotes recently for a CU and was charged 800 by one guy and 350 from another etc. The minimum was 350 for a CU replacement without upgrading earth bonding. I dont resent paying for a job well done but feel that someone getting paid a load more than me, asking for cash so it does go through the books and in actual fact gives them 500 per day for a 350 job. Thats 2500 per week, 5k per month 60 k per year. Doe seem like those who are not in the know are getting ...conned! Apologies to those good guys out there but there is no way it can be denied that there are indeed many many sparks out there who rip people off.

 

[sm1thson]

just noticed tmansteve is in caithness which is scotland so the part p stuff doesnt even apply, lol. (mods can we have scotish and welsh flag options please!!). hopefully some pitures will come soon so this topic can go back to the original question!

 

[JohnD]

that some electricians are crooks who don't pay tax and earn lots of money.

I have no respect for people who evade tax. Unless you want to employ dishonest people and encourage dishonesty, you don't have to participate.

As for your estimates of income, when I was in business on my own (not as an electrician), the most I achieved was 220 revenue-earning days in a year. Out of that comes sick pay; pension contributions; holiday pay; 12.8% employer's N.I. ; training; equipment; vehicle; accident insurance; professional memberships etc. (all the things an employee gets on top of his pay).

As a rule of thumb the independent needs to bring in about twice what an employee gets as wages and salary to be equally well-off.

You will probably have noticed that when you have your car serviced you are charged labour at £50/hr, but this is not the wages rate for the mechanic.

 

[tmansteve]

Your responses have been invaluable. Don't worry everyone, I will be taking photos tonight and hopefully posting them ASAP.

Steve