Replacing float valve for cold water storage tank

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hello,

i need to change the float valve for my cold water tank, as it not functioning correctly.

the current valve is a part 1, am I right in thinking that I need to replace it with a part 2? I have seen versions marked high pressure and low pressure - I assume I need a high pressure one as it will be connected to the rising main?

also, can anyone offer some general tips for doing this? are there any great differences in connecting a part 1 and a part 2? the old valve is covered in scale and verdigris, and so I think it's going to be tough to remove it.

lastly, there is no way of isolating the tank without shutting off the water in the kitchen. Is it worthwhile adding an isolater for the tank? What would be the best choice? stop cock, ball valve, gate valve, etc?
 
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Gaz,

Yes you're right, you have to fit a part 2 valve.

They are eactly the same as a part 1, but the water comes from the top of the valve thru a plastic elbow instead from underneath. This creats an air gap to stop back flow.

As for isolation, get and angles service valve, this screws directly onto the back of the float valve and results in the least amount of adlust to the pipework.

GALLERY]


Rico
 
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Thanks Rico,

So, this is the right one:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11518/Plumbing/Toilet-Fittings/Float-Valve-Part-2


The angled service valve has confused me. Are you assuming that the rising main comes up along side the tank, then angles 90 degrees just as it goes into the tank? Mine actually comes up into the loft on the other side from the tank, but comes up to its full height there, then runs across the loft and runs straight into the tank. :rolleyes:
 
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Gaz,

Yes that the right float valve.

As for the service valve, yes assumption made on my part.

Use this one instead.


Rico
 
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:LOL: some things are so obvious with the benefit of hindsight...

thanks guys
 
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tap connectors, like the 1 in the pic above, with built in isolation/service valves are much better than fitting separate!!!
 

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