Replacing lead lined Tudor style windows

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Looking at a property which was built 1920ish and has black painted timber frame lead lined windows, many of them have rot.

Attached are some examples.

Are we looking at replacements or fixing? What are the costs? If replacement, can you replace with double glazed versions? It's not listed or in a conservation area
 

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You can repair wood with products like dry flex resin but maybe new windows would be better.
Lead is just stuck on and that can be done after windows are fitted. Unless you want the lead inside double glazing.
My neighbour leaded their windows but when they sold house the new people ripped it off.
I heard windows start at £500 each fitted as a guide. 10 windows is 5k. Probably gone up now. It's cheaper in January I heard as now is peak season
 
It doesn't look stuck on! Are you sure? Here's a closer pic
 

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Maybe a closer pic of the actual windows you want to replace?
The one at the top is the most problematic as it's a bay window. Here's another one from the other side . You can see the rot at the bottom
 

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That does look like traditional leadwork rather than ' sticky 'lead , that means every single pane is individual and youll be able to see the lead and came .
Depends how attached you are to the wooden windows really. We have used a carpenter to repair wooden windows in the past but he always says its not worth it in the long run, as when its completely rotted there is a lot of damage you can't see, but that's a decision for and depends on your budget. If you can't avoid new windows then I'd repair them but start saving up for new ones, which, if you still want the leadwork, will utilise the ' sticky ' lead mention previously ( which can be soldered to create the same ' crossover ' look
 
That does look like traditional leadwork rather than ' sticky 'lead , that means every single pane is individual and youll be able to see the lead and came .
Depends how attached you are to the wooden windows really. We have used a carpenter to repair wooden windows in the past but he always says its not worth it in the long run, as when its completely rotted there is a lot of damage you can't see, but that's a decision for and depends on your budget. If you can't avoid new windows then I'd repair them but start saving up for new ones, which, if you still want the leadwork, will utilise the ' sticky ' lead mention previously ( which can be soldered to create the same ' crossover ' look
I couldn't care less tbh, I'd rather make the house more efficient. It's not like it's a Tudor house! Happy to patch repair in the near term and replace them longer term.

As such, do modern equivalent look decent? What are the options?
 
If you get the joints soldered they dont look too bad. You will always be able to tell the difference as they are in double glazed units. I'd advise speaking to where ever you intend to get the replacements from and get a sample of the leadwork, you can see exactly what you are getting then
 
If you get the joints soldered they dont look too bad. You will always be able to tell the difference as they are in double glazed units. I'd advise speaking to where ever you intend to get the replacements from and get a sample of the leadwork, you can see exactly what you are getting then
Sorry I mean just replace them with generic cottage style windows, rather than keeping them the same look. The house isn't in a heritage area, so I just want decent windows but which don't look like cheap new build ones.
 
Again go into a potential.supplier , look at the colours they offer , just beware that a lot say can get black , but it will actually be Black/brown which in direct sunlight isba very dark brown. I believe Rehau and Deuckeninck do a proper black colour
 
Again go into a potential.supplier , look at the colours they offer , just beware that a lot say can get black , but it will actually be Black/brown which in direct sunlight isba very dark brown. I believe Rehau and Deuckeninck do a proper black colour

Yes you need to be very careful when ordering black, just saying you want black won't be enough because a lot of people don't realise or know anything about Schwarz Braun (Black Brown) is a deep, near-black brown color, commonly recognized as RAL 8022

While "Schwarz" literally means black in German, uPVC manufacturers often offer this colour in different textures and sub-shades:

Black Woodgrain (Black Ash): A popular choice that features a textured foil, giving the uPVC a natural timber-like appearance while maintaining a deep black finish.

Smooth/Matt Black: A modern, flat finish that provides a sleek, contemporary aesthetic without the woodgrain texture.

Schwarzbraun (Black Brown): Often associated with RAL 8022, this is a very dark brown that appears black in most lighting but has a warmer undertone compared to the "pure" RAL 9005
 

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