Replacing washers on a very old tap

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The photo show a pic of a pair of bath taps that I'm trying to replace washers on.


The tap top and protective cover have come off of the cold easily but are stuck fast on the hot tap (high limescale area.)

Any tips for how to get them off?

Any advice on getting to the washers in this type of tap also appreciated.

Please don't tell me to just replace the taps; we like these and besides the underside is pretty much inaccessible.
 
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Flood the area with penetrating oil, and leave a while......
I have had some success by using pliers gently below the tap head, and then tapping the pliers upwards - carefully does it! If you do get inside, the washers are the traditional plain type, which you'll see when the insert is unscrewed. Do what you can to prevent the tap turning!
John :)
 
If you can't get the tap top off but protective cover is loose, open the tap all the way to top, unscrew cover and put a piece of wood in between bottom of cover and tap body, then close tap, it will push out tap top as you turning off.

This washers will fit this taps : http://www.wickes.co.uk/Bath-Tap-Washers-3-4in-PK2/p/420052

It may also help if you reseat the taps as well to improve tightness off of tap closing.

Daniel.
 
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Thanks, all. Got them both off, replaced washers and now they both drip worse than before!

Seems to be quite a lot of crap on the "seat" so I'm guessing this is where re-seating comes in? Haven't done that before so again, any tips much appreciated.
 
LMAO at the comments on the mastic and kecks btw! Please be assured I was not wearing pinkies at the time, in fact I'm not entirely sure where the pink on the reflection came from. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it!
 
You can get the reseating tool for a few quid and you only need to do it as hard as is required to get a nice smooth finish on the seat.


It's been years since I've had to do it mind.


Don't over do it... and whilst the mechanisms are out, get a tub of silicone GREASE (not sealant) and take the carriers out and grease everything up.
 
One thing I noticed is that the washers that came out were much bigger than the 3/4 washers that went in.

Is this just because of compression over time or is it possible that the washers should be bigger? I notice that Toolstation sell 1" washers.
 
Diameter or thickness?

Thicker is better. Most people crunch their taps down far too hard and this leads to a cycle that ends up with drippy taps.

¾" washers are the norm for bath taps, but there is a reason plumbers have boxes of assorted washers.

It was a sad day when I finally ran out of useful washers and O-rings from my great Uncles Magic O-ring box.

Think all that's left in it are piston rings from Chieftain tanks.
 
Replace washers and reseat tap body should be enough to have a drip free taps.

Use the reseating tool, fit it in tap bodody and with one or two turn, remove it and check for any groove, scored. Put back and keep grinding, remove and refix till you get shine brass looking circle.

Daniel.
 

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