Rescuing damage to newly painted ceiling

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I had my bedroom skimmed recently, all four walls and ceiling. After it had dried out I put a watered-down (about 20%) coat of emulsion on, no problems. I was putting my second top coat on the other day, when I noticed what looked like a gloopy blob of paint on an area I'd painted about 5 minutes earlier. I went over it with the roller and it didn't flatten, so I nudged it with a scraper and it turned out to be a hard lump of paint which came off but took a decent-sized piece of the surrounding paintwork off with it, all the way down to the plaster. After waiting for everything to dry and picking off any loose bits, I now have a 3" x 2" patch of near-pristine looking plaster staring at me through my newly painted ceiling.

It's really frustrating. I can't work out why the paint came off so easily on this patch, because I have tested areas of the walls (which are only at mist coat stage) with a scraper and the paint seems to be nicely adhered, and it's the same mix of paint I used on the ceiling, but perhaps it's because the paint was dry when I tested the walls but this particular patch on the ceiling was wet? I don't know.

Anyway, what's done is done, so now I need to try and rescue the situation. Will I be able to get it back to looking like one continuous piece of paint again or is it just a case of getting it 'close enough'? Any advice you can give to a frustrated novice DIYer would be gladly appreciated.
 
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I would water down the emulsion again and apply it to the patch of new plaster.

Give plenty of time to dry then apply some filler and you will be able to lightly sand it back to gain a flat surface with the existing paint. Apply a watered down coat to the filler, allow to dry, then you can coat up the whole ceiling.

The reason for this may have been insufficient drying time or a contaminant on that part of the ceiling that reacted with the paint.
 
I had my bedroom skimmed recently, all four walls and ceiling. After it had dried out I put a watered-down (about 20%) coat of emulsion on, no problems. I was putting my second top coat on the other day, when I noticed what looked like a gloopy blob of paint on an area I'd painted about 5 minutes earlier. I went over it with the roller and it didn't flatten, so I nudged it with a scraper and it turned out to be a hard lump of paint which came off but took a decent-sized piece of the surrounding paintwork off with it, all the way down to the plaster. After waiting for everything to dry and picking off any loose bits, I now have a 3" x 2" patch of near-pristine looking plaster staring at me through my newly painted ceiling.

It's really frustrating. I can't work out why the paint came off so easily on this patch, because I have tested areas of the walls (which are only at mist coat stage) with a scraper and the paint seems to be nicely adhered, and it's the same mix of paint I used on the ceiling, but perhaps it's because the paint was dry when I tested the walls but this particular patch on the ceiling was wet? I don't know.

Anyway, what's done is done, so now I need to try and rescue the situation. Will I be able to get it back to looking like one continuous piece of paint again or is it just a case of getting it 'close enough'? Any advice you can give to a frustrated novice DIYer would be gladly appreciated.

I very much doubt as to whether your problem is either a lack of drying time or any form of contaminant, yet more likley to be that particular area had been overpolished by the spread. If and I believe this to be the cause of your problem, then the application of any waterbased system will offer the same result. Also to try and attempt to face fill in order to achieve a uniform substrate would be nire on impossible.

Sand back the edges of the emulsion in order to feather out and offer uniformity to the skim, lightly sand the exposed skim dust off then again apply a mist coat to the area.

Dec
 
Eastfill and a sanding block would be my choice. You may even be able to use a lightweight filler that needs no sanding if there is a layer or two paint depth. Ask Dec - he knows these things.
 
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Seeing as the op has only applied a mist and then attempted the first finish coat, he will have little to no depth to work with. As there is only a scant amount of emulsion applied I think to feather out the edges of the existing would be the better option.

Dec
 
Thanks to all for your replies.

The paint is quite thin so I think lightly sanding back will be the best option to try first and then take it from there. I'm not dismissing any option at this stage though; whatever gets the job done.

What type and grit sandpaper would be best for this type of job?

TheDec: you are right, the plaster is quite polished, but the paint went on quite easily and didn't slide about too much so I never really thought anything of it. I have a bare patch of wall around the window sill and after running a finger across it, it would seem the walls are ever-so-slightly rougher than the ceiling. Barely noticable, but enough to make a difference when it comes to paint adhesion it would seem.
 
As long as the light doesn't catch it. Feathering is a dodgy game.
 
joe,

Behave, in the op's situation it would be the most advisible to feather rather than fill.

Dec
 
I have to agree in this instance with dec. The paint layers that have been applied will be very, very thin so sanding with a fine grit sand paper would suffice. I would recommend a 400 grit wet and dry and follow the advice given by dec!
 
400 grit wet, may I be so bold as to ask why you would advise on this grade of abrasive, and indeed why wet.

Dec
 
I didn't state wet!

I would use this grade as all the OP want's to do is provide a key on the bare plaster for the paint to stick to. Also that the paint is very thin and the feathering process should not be too harsh. Emulsion is not the hardest of paints and will not need anything coarser.

Or like in one of your previous posts should I just have answered NO
 
You are correct you did not mention wet, my mistake. Yet to feather out an emulsion paint using 400 grit is not the way to go.

Dec
 
You are correct you did not mention wet, my mistake. Yet to feather out an emulsion paint using 400 grit is not the way to go.

Dec

I disagree as I have done it before with great results. But as you are a pro then even though I have done this in the past and it has worked then it is the wrong advice because you say so! :rolleyes:
 
Come on dec,

think your clutching at straws here. I don't see a problem with vibro's method here and how they wouldn't achieve good results.

It's not rocket science. ;)
 

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