Restoring wooden block flooring

[hudster]

Since I started this thread, I decided to pull up the whole slab and start again. So now the underfloor is 50mm insulation, DPM, 5-6 inches of concrete and 3 of screed.

I'm planning to start laying the blocks in two weeks time when the screed has cured fully.

The one thing I'm not sure about yet is the join between the wood blocks and the kitchen slate floor. Is it best just to butt the wood right up against the slate (which does not have perfectly straight edges) or leave a small gap and fill with something?

 

[WoodYouLike]

You'll have to leave an expansion gap between wood and slate tiles. We normally use an End threshold for this (L-profile) that rests on the underfloor and not on the slate tiles - due to these mostly being uneven and rough.

The lip of the End threshold also protects the edge of the wood blocks and gives you the needed expansion gap. Little gaps between threshold and slate tiles can then be filled with a matching mastic (Bona gap master perhaps)

 

[hudster]

That looks ideal. My blocks are more like 35mm deep though - assume the sensible thing would be to glue some additional strips to the bottom to increase the height so it rested on the screed?

 

[WoodYouLike]

As long as you also keep an expansion gap between those extra blocks and the original floor.
Alternatively, ask a local joiner to make you a bespoke L-profile.

 

[hudster]

I'd assumed this white stuff on the bottom of the blocks was mold where moisture had got in over the years.

Someone in a local flooring shop today told me they used to mix asbestos in with bitumen, and given I've just spent 2 weekends scraping it off I'm really hoping it isnt that!?

Untitled

• hudster
• 10 Oct 2010
• 1

 

[diydj]

I have been stripping the bitumen off my blocks- some have residue of the concrete they where on stuck to them. You may have the same thing on yours.

I have however bought a suitable respirator since I was using a heat gun to heat it before scraping it off, the fumes were quite bad, despite good ventilation in the area.

I have then used a belt sander to clean up the top side. I then plan to use a planer/thicknesser to get them all the same dimensions.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Another trick would be to dump them in a freezer, which makes the bitumen brittle and chiseling if off will be easier (and not toxic vapours!)

 

[diydj]

Hmm I don't fancy filling my freezer with dirty wood blocks. Whilst a bit smelly the heat gun/scraper is working fine. Though I will admit it is better on a cold day as the residue cools quickly so they aren't sticky for ages.

 

[hudster]

Well I finally got a chance to repair, sand, treat with lye and then wax with Blanchon Hardwax Oil at the weekend.

It's come up great after 3 coats of wax, buffing by hand - see pic attached.

I've noticed now though that the shine has faded after 48 hours. Is this because I havent used a buffing machine or is there another trick I can use to bring back the shine?

Finished!

• hudster
• 20 Dec 2010
• 1

 

[WoodYouLike]

Looks nice

See what happens when you go over it with a cloth (high chance it will shine again).
Using an old-fashion buffingblock will help too.

 

[hudster]

Thanks, I'll give the cloth another go. Oddly enough I found old jeans to be the best material to buff with!

I wonder if 3 coats of wax wasn't enough. The wood has been untreated and under carpet for the best part of 100 years

 

[WoodYouLike]

HardWaxOil normally only needs two coats, so three is more than plenty I would say.