I have one of the above with an 11 HP Briggs & Stratton engine. Went to use it today & round a large pool of oil under it, leaking from the exhaust. Found that the sump was full of a mixture of oil & petrol so I took the head off but could not see anything wrong with valves or piston although the mixture was leaking past the exhaust valve ( partly open where it had stopped). The only thing I can think of is that the float in the carb stuck open & gravity let the fuel leak through the carb into the sump. Stripped & cleaned float & chamber (was a few bits of crap in it ), drained sump & refilled with oil.It started as soon as I cranked it over I guess because there was a little fuel left in carb. Have ordered a fuel tap for future use but wondered if anyone knew of any other reason for this problem. Thanks.
Ride on tractor
- Thread starter jj4091
- Start date
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The fuel tap is an excellent idea! Carbs with a few years on them can pass some fuel and this can dilute the oil or cause a hydraulic lock, sometimes with disastrous results.
Fuel taps should really be compulsory with gravity feed systems, especially if you store the machine in a garage where there may be a boiler or whatever. Not necessary if a fuel pump is used though.
John
Fuel taps should really be compulsory with gravity feed systems, especially if you store the machine in a garage where there may be a boiler or whatever. Not necessary if a fuel pump is used though.
John
I should have also said, it's a great time to fit a genuine Briggs fuel filter into the fuel line too.
John
John
Probably not, but have you had it laid on it's side, whilst working on it?
My tractor uses an electrically operated fuel tap, between tank and carb.
My tractor uses an electrically operated fuel tap, between tank and carb.
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Thanks John, it stands outside all year with a tarp covering it so no boiler to influence it. It already has an inline fuel filter so hopefully problem will not recur with a tap. Not sure how old it is as bought it in used condition but no fuel pump & it's a side valve engine not OHC so I guess it's pretty old.The fuel tap is an excellent idea! Carbs with a few years on them can pass some fuel and this can dilute the oil or cause a hydraulic lock, sometimes with disastrous results.
Fuel taps should really be compulsory with gravity feed systems, especially if you store the machine in a garage where there may be a boiler or whatever. Not necessary if a fuel pump is used though.
John
Thanks Harry but I am not strong enough to tip it on it's side
It was just a potential explanation - tip it on the wrong side and oil goes everywhere it shouldn't. They do seem to be designed to be tipped on their side for servicing, with carb on the higher side. I can just about lift and tilt mine onto it's side, but an easy way is using a pair of double pulleys from a tree or beam.
I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=lawn+t..._1758583&tag=googhydr-21&ref=pd_sl_d7m4va60_e
I can replace the blades without removing the deck so it's a useful bit of kit.
John
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=lawn+t..._1758583&tag=googhydr-21&ref=pd_sl_d7m4va60_e
I can replace the blades without removing the deck so it's a useful bit of kit.
John
Thanks for the replies. As I said it is a really old machine but the good thing about it is that there are just 4 spring clips that need to be pulled off & the deck can then easily be slid out on a piece of thick cardboard. I've had it just over 3 years & apart from the brake pads it is the only thing that I need to maintain. I do the brake pads by levering the back end up with a plank & fulcrum then stick a couple of axle stands under so that I can remove the wheels etc.
I could do with something like those Amazon devices in the link for working on my old car, but similar things suitable for that are a bit too expensive so I'll have to stick with my trolley jack.
I could do with something like those Amazon devices in the link for working on my old car, but similar things suitable for that are a bit too expensive so I'll have to stick with my trolley jack.
Mine did exactly the same thing once. A fuel tap is the answer. Sometimes, the needle valve just doesn't seat correctly and it fills the engine with fuel. I also try to turn the tap off just before I put it away to empty the fuel out of the float chamber.
I'm not suggesting it isn't a problem, but I have had bikes, mowers, chainsaws and now tractor mower - with taps, without taps, with solenoid valves (present tractor), in all of that time I have never bothered turning taps off, or draining carbs, yet never had a problem the following season.
Nor have I but I don't want the bother of having to go through all the trouble I had, so in future I will turn off the tap.
It's only things where the fuel could push its way past a poorly seating needle valve under gravity that are the problem. e.g. where the tank is higher than the carb. My tractor only ever did it once, but I'm not taking any chances again!
Or the float sticks in the down position & the needle valve is always open
Some Briggs carbs have a rubber needle valve seal that's easily lost:
https://www.gardenhirespares.co.uk/...x-quantum-engine-carburettor-needle-seat.html
Tends to disappear without warning, and many folks don't know it's there in the first place.
John
https://www.gardenhirespares.co.uk/...x-quantum-engine-carburettor-needle-seat.html
Tends to disappear without warning, and many folks don't know it's there in the first place.
John
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