robin 1610
- Thread starter fizzzzzz
- Start date
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I had one of these in the factory I work in.I found no obvious problems with it, but alas it got stolen.I now have a Metrel Easitest which is also a good tester.
You really need to familiarise yourself with it's functions and it needs calibrating.Perhaps you can download the instructions for it from somewhere
You really need to familiarise yourself with it's functions and it needs calibrating.Perhaps you can download the instructions for it from somewhere
not a bad meter, I have one..
it's pretty idiot proof.. turn the dial to the right range for the test you want, slide the terminal cover to the correct side for the type of test ( IE low ohms / insulation resistance one side, earth loop / rcd the other.. )
2 drawbacks of it that i have found are it has no direct PSCC reading and you cannot "zero out" the test leads..
it's pretty idiot proof.. turn the dial to the right range for the test you want, slide the terminal cover to the correct side for the type of test ( IE low ohms / insulation resistance one side, earth loop / rcd the other.. )
2 drawbacks of it that i have found are it has no direct PSCC reading and you cannot "zero out" the test leads..
Not the best choice in the world. The 1610 needs a lot of looking after:
It has no D-Lok so it will trip RCDs when you do loop impedance testing and there is no failsafe to prevent you from connecting it to a live circuit and running a continuity test.
I know that because i fried mine twice doing just that. It is repairable by Fluke, at a price.
I've done a bit of digging for you. I think you can download the manual here http://www.fluke.co.uk/comx/manual_frame.aspx?fpid=34330&pid=117&product=INS&locale=uken
Was that an eBAY purchase btw, could I ask what yu paid for it cos I might put my one on there?
Mine was Ok for a starter tester for a couple of years. I've moved on to better, more modern things now....
It has no D-Lok so it will trip RCDs when you do loop impedance testing and there is no failsafe to prevent you from connecting it to a live circuit and running a continuity test.
I know that because i fried mine twice doing just that. It is repairable by Fluke, at a price.
I've done a bit of digging for you. I think you can download the manual here http://www.fluke.co.uk/comx/manual_frame.aspx?fpid=34330&pid=117&product=INS&locale=uken
Was that an eBAY purchase btw, could I ask what yu paid for it cos I might put my one on there?
Mine was Ok for a starter tester for a couple of years. I've moved on to better, more modern things now....
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I have one I bought from e-bay for £120. I got it calibrated not long ago during a ELP calibration day - cost me about £30 plus VAT I think. I was lucky - the test results showed that it was already very accurate. I had feared that they guy was going to tell me it was out of calibration and couldn't be fixed - always the risk you have with buying from e-bay.
I'd agree with the comments that it is basic. The worst aspect is that it has no autonull facility. However I just bought it as a DIY tool to work on my own electrics, and for that (and the price) I say it is good value. If I was doing this sort of work professionally, I would want something much better.
The manual is really quite basic, but if you can't find one I'll scan it for you.
I'd agree with the comments that it is basic. The worst aspect is that it has no autonull facility. However I just bought it as a DIY tool to work on my own electrics, and for that (and the price) I say it is good value. If I was doing this sort of work professionally, I would want something much better.
The manual is really quite basic, but if you can't find one I'll scan it for you.
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