Role of a spirit level when tiling a floor

[Jupiter01]

I’ve done a few wall tiling projects and been using the spirit level to make sure tiles are straight and I have a nice plumb corner where the two walls meet. Using the spirit level diligently makes sense.

With floor tiling, I don’t quite see the same need, unless I am missing something. The floor is currently flat but not spirit level straight. I’ve made sure there are no humps. Do I need to get this floor spirit level straight before I tile?

If not, presumably the spirit level has no role in this project?

I look forward to your thoughts on this. Thanks in advance.

 

[robinbanks]

More useful as a straight edge than using the bubble; are you attempting to level out a minorly uneven/unlevel floor? Are you using a lippage prevention system?

As for getting a floor flat first, any amount of effort that goes into making sure a substrate is perfect before the decorative coat goes on is seldom wasted, in my experience.

 

[Jupiter01]

are you attempting to level out a minorly uneven/unlevel floor?

The floor is fairly straight. I’ve knocked of a few bumps but it is off on the spirit level

Are you using a lippage prevention system?

I intend to and would appreciate any recommendations please.

I could go to the length of pouring self levelling and perfecting this but is that necessary when floor tiling? Equally, I don’t want to be caught out as I move out from the centre of the room - as I tile the floor.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Initial use of the level to make sure the max variation is within the limits of your adhesive (so 10mm dip ok, 20mm would need some attention).
After that, if it works with the tile scheme I'd start at the high spot (with minimum bed required for the tile) and work from there using level.

 

[Jupiter01]

Initial use of the level to make sure the max variation is within the limits of your adhesive (so 10mm dip ok, 20mm would need some attention).
After that, if it works with the tile scheme I'd start at the high spot (with minimum bed required for the tile) and work from there using level.

But then the adjoining rooms floor won’t be level. In a bid to level the kitchen floor, I will create a step where this floor meets the living room floor. Why not follow the current level (which is not level!) and then scribe the kitchen plinths?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Notch7]

if you have large tiles with rectified edge -you need a totally flat floor, like 3mm variation over its whole area

if youve got smaller tiles and nice big grout lines -happy days

 

[oldbutnotdead]

But then the adjoining rooms floor won’t be level. In a bid to level the kitchen floor, I will create a step where this floor meets the living room floor. Why not follow the current level (which is not level!) and then scribe the kitchen plinths?

Thanks for your help.

Ah, the joys. Flat but not level is an aesthetics thing. If your datum is the living room floor then you have to set to that- for sure you'll need a long straight edge or a line to maintain flat not level. It's much easier if you can run level but if you can't then you can't.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If your datum is the living room floor then you have to set to that- for sure you'll need a long straight edge or a line to maintain flat not level.

This is one of those situations where a laser level teally does save time and effort when checking or transferring levels. Not so good at checking local variations in floor level, which us where a 6ft level (or a 3ft/4ft level taped to a 6ft length of straight planed timber) works far better

 

[Jupiter01]

This is one of those situations where a laser level teally does save time and effort when checking or transferring levels. Not so good at checking local variations in floor level, which us where a 6ft level (or a 3ft/4ft level taped to a 6ft length of straight planed timber) works far better

Is this done by setting the laser level a foot or so above the floor, horizontally across the walls and then measure the depth from the floor to the laser line? I do own a laser level but not used it for this purpose.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yes, but don't measure. Simply cut A piece of straight 2 x 1in (44 x 22mm) PSE softwood or similar to about 100mm longer than the laser line to floor distance (we generally set the laser at 1m above FFL aka finished floor level, it doesn't need to be exact), hold the timber staff (rod) vertical and tilt it forwards and backwards to determine the lowest point on the rod and mark that then square the line across the rod with a try square combi square or speed square (in pencil), then recheck the low point using the pencil line to confirm plumb in two axes (the pencil line will help you keep it plumb left to right by aligning parallel with the laser line) and mark any adjustmentnon the rod. Square across on the new mark with a Sharpie or finish point black marker. By moving the rod around and tilting it back and forth you can check for floor height - if the laser line is abive the datum line on your rod the floor is low at the point, if it is above the datum line then it is high. A metre length makes for a rod which is more sensitive than a shorter one and also means the rod can be used whilst standing, which is a bit easier on my poor old knees!

 

[lostinthelight]

When doing anything with floor levels I use a laser set around hip height, a long spirit level with masking tape stuck on one edge and mark all my levels on that, using a spirit level means upright is correct in at least one direction.I always mark a corresponding mark in an inconspicuous place for a datum point.

 

[mrrusty]

When lasering a floor, lego bricks work well. Set the laser close to the floor and place little stacks of bricks around the floor with a colour change around the laser line. Instantly apparent where the humps and dips are.