Running another socket from a junction box.

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Hi,

I have an armoured cable run to the garage to a twin socket.

RCD ----> Twin socket.

It's a simple cable runs from fuse box to the socket. I want to add in a floodlight so was going to do this:

RCD ----> Junction box ---> socket and another cable from junction box to the switch for floodlight.

Is that ok? I understand you can't run a spur from a spur so was going to use a junction box to split it up.

Is this kind of cable ok? http://www.selcobw.com/0-75mm-3-core-round-flex-50m

Any help appreciated

Thanks

Graham
 
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Firstly, what is the armoured connected to in the house? Secondly you do not need a junction box, you can run from the existing socket as you will in effect have a radial circuit. Thirdly you can run from the second socket to a switched fused connector to control the light(with a 3a fuse fitted) This will look a lot neater.

:cry: too da*n slow
 
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From your description it is not clear how your existing cable is set up.
Does the SW cable run from a Consumer Unit (location?) to a double socket in the garage? Is it part of a Ring Final Circuit or a Radial Final Circuit? There are no spurs on Radial Circuit.

If you want to introduce a flood light into the circuit then you will need to fuse down the circuit to probably 3Amp via a Fused connection unit or Fused Connection Switch.
Either way I would not suggest you try and split SW cable with a junction box but run the FCU (switch) from the existing socket using the appropriately sized cable.
 
Firstly, what is the armoured connected to in the house? Secondly you do not need a junction box, you can run from the existing socket as you will in effect have a radial circuit. Thirdly you can run from the second socket to a switched fused connector to control the light(with a 3a fuse fitted) This will look a lot neater.

:cry: too da*n slow

Fourthly do you have any idea how to prove what you are doing is safe and compliant?
 
Crikey I'm glad I posted this - I was just gonna crack on and do it this evening.

The most amusing part (for me) is the method I described above was what 2 electricians said they were going to do when they quoted today; this doesn't really leave me with much reassurance !

OK so the armoured cable goes to the consumer unit (well it looks like the picture, has a flap and lots of individual fuse switches). The value of the device, I assume means the wattage - in which case it is 48W.

Despite all your techno jargon (love ya really!!!), I've understood it!

Consumer unit ----> Switch ---> Fused switch FCU thing ----> Floodlight!
 
The value of the device, I assume means the wattage - in which case it is 48W.
No, we mean the value of the device in the consumer unit that is protecting the armoured cable. It will say something like B16 on it.


Despite all your techno jargon (love ya really!!!), I've understood it!

Consumer unit ----> Switch ---> Fused switch FCU thing ----> Floodlight!

WRONG, you have not understood it

Consumer unit>armoured cable>>socket>>2.5mm² cable>>FCU "thing" with a 3A fuse in it>>>Floodlight. You do not need another switch as the FCU thing is the switch.
If you want another switch it must go after the FCU.
 
Sorry yes that's what I meant, socket not switch.

Does it have to be 2.5mm2 ? Cr@p I bought too thinner cable 0- boo! Guess back to selco this eve!
 
You'll need at least 2.5mm from the socket to the FCU.
It depends on what is at the house end. That is why everybody has been asking you questions like
First of all, did you mean RCD, or MCB?
What is the value of the device?

and

we mean the value of the device in the consumer unit that is protecting the armoured cable. It will say something like B16 on it.

So, what is it?


The .75mm you have got is what you need to go from the FCU to the floodlight.
 
The cable size you require is determined by its current carrying capacity.
The current carrying capacity must be greater than the fuses/circuit breaker incorporated into the circuit.
You don't say what size the RCBO/MCB is at the Consumer Unit for this circuit, but if it is 20Amps or less then a 2.5mm2 Twin & Earth Cable is okay from the socket to the FCU switch.
If the RCBO/MCB is 32Amps then you will need 4mm2 T&E.
If you put a 3Amp fuse in the FCU switch then your 0.75mm2 is okay for the route from the FCU to the 48w lamp - though this cable is not suitable for outdoor use.
Make sure the circuit is dead and tested dead before you commence work on it.
 
So is the OP really saying he/she has had two electrician around, saying that they would break in to the SWA and fit a FCU at that point, rather than take feed from Socket outlet?

I think some pictures might help, as either there is something being explained wrongly to us, the electricians are idiots or fictional!
 
Sorry, not ignoring the question; I'm away from home at the moment so can't look. The other half is sending over a picture this evening - we can hope it's of the right thing!
 

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