Salvaged wood for cladding

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Hi,

I have some salvaged wood which I intend to use of a medium sized shed. I have everything I need for skids, joists, studs, noggins, etc, etc, but the cladding is still a question.

Among the stock I obtained is 400m of 10mm x 100mm in 2.4m lengths. The obvious conclusion I came to is to use this for the cladding. It would be nice to figure out the best way to use it.

I have a table router and a hand router, so I was thinking of making the pieces into shiplap. I am aware that shiplap is normally thicker and deeper, and I was wondering what the concerns might be.

The wood is heat treated, but not pressure treated. It comes from the lids of boxes use to freight metal sheets around the world.

I plan to paint the cladding pieces before they go on with a good exterior wood paint.

Would someone care to tell me if this is a bad idea or there is a better way to clad with this stuff?

Thanks for reading!

J
 
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400m what lengths are you talking about
10mm is a bit thin really
you could do a 5mmx10mm rebate on diagonally opposite edges 100mm will give you around 88mm coverage so a square m will be around 11.5 m in length so 400 will = 34 sqm or somthing like a 12ftx10ft shed assuming little or no waste
 
No need to tool it and sounds a good size for cladding, just lap them one slightly above the other..
 
400m what lengths are you talking about
10mm is a bit thin really
you could do a 5mmx10mm rebate on diagonally opposite edges 100mm will give you around 88mm coverage so a square m will be around 11.5 m in length so 400 will = 34 sqm or somthing like a 12ftx10ft shed assuming little or no waste

The lengths are 2.4m with some 3m in there.

Yes, it is thin. Do you think it will be more susceptible to warp? I was thinking because it's heat treated and I will paint it I might counter this a little. I also plan to felt the frame before fixing, so If I'm more prone to leaks it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

I like the rebate idea, easier to do than a shiplap.

No need to tool it and sounds a good size for cladding, just lap them one slightly above the other..

What overlap were you thinking? I was thinking that a tooled interlock of some kind would give me more coverage per plank and perhaps a little more longevity.

I guess this will be a labour of love for me, and I would prefer the visual appeal of interlocking cladding. I have so much free wood I will certainly board all the insides (not with shiplap, I have some bigger boards for that). I guess insulating the cavities would make sense. I am also looking at re-claimed upvc doors and windows, just to give you a flavour of what I'm looking at finish wise. I guess shed was the wrong word!

Just saw and read about Big All's workshop after posting, very inspired by the roof carpentry that allows an open ended design - my thinking is changing. Love those loft doors.

I am going back tomorrow to get another Luton FULL TO THE TOP of this free wood. Love it.

Thank you for your replies. It would also be great to get your thoughts on fixing. For 10mm cladding, will brad nails be ok? I quite fancy buying an air nail gun and compressor for this job. Maybe brads are not secure enough for a long term fix.

Cheers,

J
 
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shiplap cutter requires a 1/2" router and table
yes cupping can be an issue as with all wood

never dealt with heat treated /singed wood so don't know how they will react but suspect it will be similar or the same as non pressure treated wood

i chose to screw my shiplap together and glad i did
i had asked the pressure treated timber to be stored indoors at the woodyard
it turned up covered in snow jan 2004 i fixed it after several days in door [around 3 weeks] fixed really tight at 110mm[5x1 txg] a year or so later the wood had shrunk so much i could see daylight between planks
i had to unscrew all planks and tighten up with a 2mm gap the difference over 6ft was around 50mm so half a plank :eek:
basically if i nailed i would have been completely flucced :D
 
buy treated feather edge and do a proper job its cheap

I appreciate your input.

The spirit of the project is to recycle, and I am under no time constraint.

If you support your point of view with an explanation I can give it more thought, but as it is I think I'll carry on.

From my point of view, this is heat treated wood, so it's not going to shrink as much as untreated wood.

See this paper, if you're interested:

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...ktOiB95og&sig2=tGmJUbyVjpicumeQ2NOnOQ&cad=rja

I believe that with the right treatment, with attention to the longevity of that treatment, and sufficient re-application within the recommended time frame, so long as no wood touches the floor, I will be OK.

In short I believe that exterior latex based wood paint every 5 years will cover me for rot and infestation. I can't find the papers that I read on that one.

I don't mean to sound stubborn or ungrateful. I am open to persuasion, and happy to be proved wrong.


Edit: found one of the pieces on coverings :

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/finlines/knaeb95b.pdf
 
The piece you linked to is for thermally modified wood, it's heat treatment, but not the same.

Your pieces are heat treated to about <60c for fumigation purposes, not the 120-280c quoted in your link.

They will shrink less because they are drier (and that depends on how they have been stored), not because the cell structure has changed, nothing really happens at that low temperature.

They will need preservative treatment, not just a paint finish.

Just use them square and lap them by 10-15mm, one s/s fixing 25mm up from the bottom.

The problem with brads is they have no head, so if the boards do want to cup, they don't help hold them down flat. Saying that, they are only 10mm thick, so it doesn't seem worth it spending the money on decent nails. As long as you don't paint them black, they probably won't cup much.
 
The piece you linked to is for thermally modified wood, it's heat treatment, but not the same.

Your pieces are heat treated to about <60c for fumigation purposes, not the 120-280c quoted in your link.

They will shrink less because they are drier (and that depends on how they have been stored), not because the cell structure has changed, nothing really happens at that low temperature.

They will need preservative treatment, not just a paint finish.

Just use them square and lap them by 10-15mm, one s/s fixing 25mm up from the bottom.

The problem with brads is they have no head, so if the boards do want to cup, they don't help hold them down flat. Saying that, they are only 10mm thick, so it doesn't seem worth it spending the money on decent nails. As long as you don't paint them black, they probably won't cup much.

Thank you for taking the time to post, very helpful and thought provoking.

I just looked up the info on HT pallets, and can confirm what you say about temperature. Yes I was planning to use preservative before painting.

I hadn't thought of how wood colour affects heat absorption, I guess that means I might do it light or white to be sure. Saying that, the site is in a very sheltered spot, under mature trees, so in summer there won't be direct sunlight at all from overhead.

Regarding the nails, what is the minimum size for ring shank nails I would need then? 25mm? 30mm? Are they going to be SO expensive? I just looked up brad nails vs ring shank for cost, and the difference didn't seem vast? I do have to spend money on fixings, and few quid won't break the bank.

I was thinking of erecting a temporary shelter and stacking the wood (all of it, not just the cladding) on individual shims under that for a few weeks, hoping that would cure it a bit from any rain moisture it has picked up, and let it settle. I know the wood has mostly lived inside in the recent past, so I hope it will be pretty dry/acclimatised for the build.
 
Remember if you lap them the nail has to go further than just the 1 board, as the lap kicks it out another 8mm at the fixing point, so a 25mm nail may only go into the batten by 7mm or so, I would think a 40mm nail sufficient.

As they are so thin, they would likely only need 3-7 days to acclimatise to the ambient humidity.
 
Remember if you lap them the nail has to go further than just the 1 board, as the lap kicks it out another 8mm at the fixing point, so a 25mm nail may only go into the batten by 7mm or so, I would think a 40mm nail sufficient.

As they are so thin, they would likely only need 3-7 days to acclimatise to the ambient humidity.

Ah yes, I was still thinking in shiplap terms. OK, 40mm sounds good.

Now to decide wether to buy or hire a nailer, and which one. Time for some more reading.

Fair point about the drying, but I didn't emphasise that I got all the timber together. Skids, rafters, studs, boards, the lot. It's all going to have to be ready, thus the few weeks.
 

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