M
Mickymoody
In 20 years of repairing TV's, I never heard of a t-card.......and speaking to my seniors..nor did they.
samsung LCD TV
- Thread starter craig1
- Start date
In 20 years of repairing TV's, I never heard of a t-card.......and speaking to my seniors..nor did they.
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Well, that explains why you're unemployed.
M
Mickymoody
A-ha! I see the joke now. The engineer told you, that you need a T-card, ie test card, your words. But in reality, you need a T-con...an invertor board...
Take your pick...http://www.dalbani.co.uk/electronic_components/samsung_t_con_inverter_boards.php?p=63|
Sell the wrong information, then insult a poster for not understanding your incorrect post. I expect an apology for your insult. It certainly explains when I listen and read properly, I know the difference between a T-Card, and a T-con invertor. One is a test card, and the other is a commonly failing item. I've replaced hundreds of invertors. But to date, been unable to replace Test cards. (or even T cards).
I'm unemployed, because idiots like you have a job, but fail to understand basic information provided to you, and thus grind the country to a halt. And use every excuse to blame people out of work for your woes. Get over yourself.
I thought you'd never heard of a T-Card?
Actually, I'm unemployed too! Except I'm not complaining about it to everyone who'll pretend to listen.
You may want to note that I am not craig1.
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Hi Graig 1,
Did replacing the inverter card (Tcon) cure your problems.
I ask as I have simular problems.
Rolyh
M
Mickymoody
A common fault on these TV's is the invertor, or T-con, as it's branded by the manufacturer. It's basically the starter on a florescent light. Sometimes, if you turn the ambient light down, and the screen brightness full, you will see a faint picture. But often they will shutdown fully, and the PSU goes into protect mode, so it powers on then off, gives an error code, or just sits there. Depending on the I2C bus in the TV, and access to diagnostics, depending on chassis and age.
Thank you Mickymoody,
The TV I ‘m having a start up problem with is a Samsung LE32A456C2.
It used work for a few minutes then switch off.
Now when you press the start button on the side the led flashes for a few seconds then returns to continues red. I have checked the PSU for bulging capacotors but all seem OK. Though I did change one that was rated at 10 volts, and that made no difference, but when I measured the voltage across it was only 5volts, so I suspect that it is the 5v line and the original cap is OK, also the PSU was manufacture in 2008 which is probably after most Samsung users were seeing the PSU capacitor problems on the PSU’s.
I’m trying to purchase a service manual from somewhere to try and get to the bottom of this problem.
From what you have told me about the T-con board it sounds that it only comes into play on switch on, which could be my problem now. But the original problem of switch off after a period of time sounds more like PSU. So as you can see I have a bit of a dilemma.
The TV I ‘m having a start up problem with is a Samsung LE32A456C2.
It used work for a few minutes then switch off.
Now when you press the start button on the side the led flashes for a few seconds then returns to continues red. I have checked the PSU for bulging capacotors but all seem OK. Though I did change one that was rated at 10 volts, and that made no difference, but when I measured the voltage across it was only 5volts, so I suspect that it is the 5v line and the original cap is OK, also the PSU was manufacture in 2008 which is probably after most Samsung users were seeing the PSU capacitor problems on the PSU’s.
I’m trying to purchase a service manual from somewhere to try and get to the bottom of this problem.
From what you have told me about the T-con board it sounds that it only comes into play on switch on, which could be my problem now. But the original problem of switch off after a period of time sounds more like PSU. So as you can see I have a bit of a dilemma.
M
Mickymoody
The power LED flashing is possibly an error code, pointing to the point of failure. A websearch may reveal the code, or if you state how many times it flashes, maybe I can do a search?
However, that cap you replaced, 5v across it, seems in range, to not overload it, or maybe the line is partially shorted? Would suggest some cap leakage across tracks?
These modern TV's are so modular, and interconnected, by the I2c bus, that it is rare for a TV to work for a bit, then fail, and the repair is modular too, so well done, for getting stuck in! the main suspects are regulators next to caps misbehaving,as they overheat, or dry joints/broken tracks, due to leaked electrolyte....
Good luck with it. Keep me posted, and I'll do a more thorough check.
However, that cap you replaced, 5v across it, seems in range, to not overload it, or maybe the line is partially shorted? Would suggest some cap leakage across tracks?
These modern TV's are so modular, and interconnected, by the I2c bus, that it is rare for a TV to work for a bit, then fail, and the repair is modular too, so well done, for getting stuck in! the main suspects are regulators next to caps misbehaving,as they overheat, or dry joints/broken tracks, due to leaked electrolyte....
Good luck with it. Keep me posted, and I'll do a more thorough check.
I did manage to get a manual package for £4.99, but it doesn't have decent circuit diagrams, just fault finding charts. From this information supplied I have found that I’m missing 12v and 5v out of the PSU. But the manual does not supply a circuit schematic for the PSU, the manual just tell you to replace it. The PSU part number is BN44-00214A and I have made a request to the manual supplier for this schematic.
This link to the service manual for the LE36A456C, if you would like it.
http://www.mediafire.com/?wa0mjomkqzt.
Rolyh
This link to the service manual for the LE36A456C, if you would like it.
http://www.mediafire.com/?wa0mjomkqzt.
Rolyh
M
Mickymoody
So you are missing a line, which suggests a transistor, regulator, and on the secondary side of the PSU..and there are only 2 or 3. The one closest to a heat source is the best for fail. Or a dry joint,
I once bought a service manual for £40, and the day it arrived, the kids knocked off the tubes neck...oops...
Test the transistors, by heat test - touch them when turned off, see if one is red hot. Bring the set back to life by using freezer spray, or confirmed by using a hair dryer.
Low ESR on caps seems unlikely, but check for leakage, or spillage.
The PSU in LCD's is pretty critical, and normally has to be matched on a scope, otherwise screen issues occur. So if a new PSU is fitted complete, you might have screen issues.
This is my argument between CRT, LCD and Plasma, the latter two are untested, and have a short shelf life....that is proved time and again. Repair them, and you don't get the same quality picture.
Thanks,
I shall try some of you suggestions. I have actaully got the PSU out of the chassis, and shall see if I can fault find it stand alone on my bench at work.
But I'm on holiday as from today ad shall not get back to it for a week.
But shall let you know of the progress then.
Rolyh
I shall try some of you suggestions. I have actaully got the PSU out of the chassis, and shall see if I can fault find it stand alone on my bench at work.
But I'm on holiday as from today ad shall not get back to it for a week.
But shall let you know of the progress then.
Rolyh
M
Mickymoody
Good on you! Be safe, I'd suggest also surface mount transistors being fault, and broken thru board mounts. So, after the delayed fault happens, freezer spray, then use of a hairdryer, to isolate, as lead free solder is rubbish that they use now. Good luck sorting it.
Hi Mickymoody,
I had another look at this TV again this week. The SMPS(PSU) part number is BN44-00214A, of which I now have a CCT diagram.
I thought that I would power up the SMPS with no outputs connected, and I did have all the supplies that should be there 5v/13v/24v which surprised me as I thought that I would have to enabled the PSU somehow.
I then connected the connecter CNM802 to the main card and all was still OK, but when I connected CNm801 to the main card after 20 seconds the PSU appeared to trip and there was a click sound from it.
I then returned the set up to mains in only and there was only the primary 5volts available.
Remembering that originally that the TV had only been working for a few minutes in the first place so it could be that connecting the CNM802 connector may not have caused the trip. To understand what caused the trip I need to convince my self that the PSU is OK stand alone before going ant further.
Would you know if there is a device that I need to ensure is switched on the SMPS to enable the PSU outputs?
I can send you the PSU circuit if that is helpful.
Rolyh
I had another look at this TV again this week. The SMPS(PSU) part number is BN44-00214A, of which I now have a CCT diagram.
I thought that I would power up the SMPS with no outputs connected, and I did have all the supplies that should be there 5v/13v/24v which surprised me as I thought that I would have to enabled the PSU somehow.
I then connected the connecter CNM802 to the main card and all was still OK, but when I connected CNm801 to the main card after 20 seconds the PSU appeared to trip and there was a click sound from it.
I then returned the set up to mains in only and there was only the primary 5volts available.
Remembering that originally that the TV had only been working for a few minutes in the first place so it could be that connecting the CNM802 connector may not have caused the trip. To understand what caused the trip I need to convince my self that the PSU is OK stand alone before going ant further.
Would you know if there is a device that I need to ensure is switched on the SMPS to enable the PSU outputs?
I can send you the PSU circuit if that is helpful.
Rolyh
M
Mickymoody
test post
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