Scantronic 9651 low battery bleeping

22 Sep 2012
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United Kingdom
HI everyone
I have just fitted scantronic 9651 2 weeks ago now suddenly amber light shows up on keypad bleeping saying low battery this was all replaced 2 weeks ago where would I start ? the battery is reading 11.74 v dc
the outputs is 0074v dc
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I'd say it is not being charged.

Remembering that there is a mains supply in the panel, remove the battery leads from the battery and measure the charging voltage on the leads, bet you have not got any.

Blown battery fuse?


The panel uses fast-acting polyswitch fuses for overcurrent protection:
F1 – 12V AUX output
F2 – Battery output
F3 – Bus 1
Note: Polyswitch fuses automatically reset when the load is entirely removed.

Don't know this panel, hence the mistake, sorry.
HI guys
okay the latest update of the situation is as follows
removed the battery last night in the morning I tested the battery leads and had a supply I refitted the battery taking it out of engineering mode and seems to be okay obviously I am overloading the system so how might I get around this problem ?
is there another part that I can buy to add to the system
please help I would be extremely grateful
To be honest, I reckon that battery voltage is rather low, so I agree with the answers. There is only so much current available to perform all the tasks, hold off, battery float and of course the supply to the detectors. It might be worth adding together the current consumption of all the detectors, sounder quiescent current and so on, If the total is reaching the 750 milliamp stage then it could be this. Otherwise it might be worth replacing the battery with new again, since it is not unknown to find that a brand new battery is not as brand new as we think it is. Could be wrong, and always open to being shouted down. If you do have a probable overload on detectors and/or warning devices, perhaps adding a 1 amp power supply would help the problem.
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Thank you how would I go about adding a one amp voltage supply what would I have to do to connect it to and what will I connected to ? :p

I have read several excellent answers on this forum regarding adding a 1 amp power supply, I'll make mine brief and ask you to look around the forum to see those replies, they are easy to understand and really worth a look.

However, before we go into that, we must ensure that the panel is not faulty in any way. To do this, try removing the terminal connection pairs to the zones and placing a metal link between each pair, whilst also disconnecting the auxiliary supply to those detectors ( I am assuming that you are using conventional tamper, rather than FST, or end of line resistors). Link as much as you can, including the global tamper if there is one on your panel. Then give the panel a chance to charge the battery for a few hours. I would expect the battery reading to be in the region of 12.5 to 13.5 volts. Also, although this does not always happen, if the battery connections are loose, tighten them gently with a pliers on the terminals of the battery, but do this with care, they should not be 'wriggling about' when you touch them. Don't overdo it, obviously.

You can power the detectors, and indeed the external sounder - but I wouldn't advise the sounder bit for the moment - by mounting a boxed 1 amp power supply close to the control panel and connect it to the existing fused spur which is feeding the control panel. You would need a standby battery, similar to the one in the control panel, mounted inside the power supply.

Most installers recommend that you 'ground' the power supply. This means linking the zero volts at the power supply with that at the control panel, although I have often left this out without any problems - If the experts come back and tell us that this is essential, then go ahead and do it. The supply that you would normally take to the detectors from the control panel should now be taken from the power supply, thus reducing the load on the panel. Rather than run each + and - pair to the power supply, place them all in two strip connectors and just run one pair of cores ( + and - ) into the power supply. Usually it's better to double up on this pos and neg pair, so that you have say a black and blue twisted together for -ve and say a red and yellow twisted together for the +ve.

All viewpoints are welcome, I won't throw my toys out of the pram.
May I say thank you very much once I get to read this properly and understand it's I will do so and get in contact with you as soon as possible but I do appreciate all your help so far But I do know if it actually is running at 13.6 v at this present time

In your earlier posts I think you pointed out that the battery was at about 11.4 volts. If none of the llights (led's) on the detectors are dimmed, that is if they are glowing nicely when you walk in front of them, that's a good sign. When you do a system test (a walk test) and the external sounder is fairly loud and healthy that's another good sign. If you can set and unset the system without any problems, another good sign. But, as any installer worth his salt will tell you, even a battery showing 12 volts may not be in good health and there are specific load tests which the industy carries out, or should carry out, to determine the exact condition of the battery during a service call. A bit too much at this stage.

Since you established earlier, that the battery voltage was 11.4 volts at that time, then I should imagine that you are able to carry out a voltage check across the terminals of the removed, or disconnected battery. This voltage check is not totally accurate since the internal resistance of the multimeter should be taken into consideration, but having said that, if your meter reads somewhere in the region of 12.5 or higher after a few hours of carrying out the 'link test' and soak, then it should point to the fact that the panel was overloaded before the test was carried out.

Alarm systems do strange things, I have often stood baffled in front of a panel which showed a fault in the system, only for the fault to clear itself sometime later. So, we are effectively looking for a voltage which is a great deal higher than 11.4.

Is the battery receiving a charge. Well here we go with the multimeter again. Some are trickled at about 350 milliamps whilst others are at 500 milliamps. Place your meter on DC current, remove the positive lead from the battery and connect one lead to the now vacant pole and the other to the positive lead, you should be getting a reading in the regions mentioned, but check your manual because some are charged at an even lower current.

Is the battery receiving a voltage. Well, disconnect both leads from the battery terminals and with your meter on DC volts at about 20Vdc and touch them to the ends of the battery leads. It should read 12 volts since the regulator in the power supply end of the printed circuit board will only give you 12 volts. If it's anything less, then suspect it. When we say anything less, we must account for the tolerance of the meter which could be + or - 10% so a reading of say ll.9volts should be acceptable according to meter tolerance. However, carry out the same voltage check at the auxiliary supply terminals, if the voltages differ to a marked degree then it's possible that something is suspect.

There is a current limiting resistor in series with the battery. If this goes high value for any degree of time, then there should be a sort of scorch or burn mark on the pcb near the battery lead terminals. You won't always see this, but it's worth looking out for. The resistor value is about 470 ohms, but nowadays it tends to vary from panel to panel.

It is impossible in this short space to cover every check which the experts do on a daily basis, so we'll go on those tests first and see what the results are.

A simple check of the system is also worthwhile. How many internal and external sounders are there. How many detectors and how far away from the control panel are they. It's unusual in domestic's but long cable runs can cause voltage drop, hence the need for the panel to draw some power from the battery.

Another common feature found in the panel instructions is " ... this panel is rated at 1 amp with a fully charged battery .... " so it is not always the case that the panel is dishing out a total of 1 amp, this is where your device calculations should not really exceed 750 milliamps.
i think you will find alarm panel voltage outputs are 13.80v typical not 12.00v. still think its a faulty battery
Yes, I'd go along with that, it certainly seems that way. Although, I have read a story of a chap buying a control panel which was supposed to be brand new, but the shop was well aware that they were selling one with a fault on it.... He did get a good one out of them at the end of the day though.
Hey what's going on here, I go away for a couple of days and someone else is posting massive replies, that's my job! :D
May I say thank you very much to everyone who is helping And advice I'm having a good lot of fun and getting to know my meter very well I do appreciate everything that everyone has done THANK YOU :D :D :D

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