Security light with pir sensor built in

[Swarnes]

Hi, I have a junction box which feeds a live and neutral to one security light with pir then a second cable in junction that feeds second light.

I have a sonos switch from that.

Live-neutral ---> sonos switch ---> junction box --> light

I would like to add a switch so I can have the lights on permanently if needed.

I have tried the on off trick with no success.

How can I successfully add a single light switch to both lights?

If I added a single switch inside, can I wire from junction box to switch to lights? How do I get the pir to bypass to have light on permanently?

The screen shot attached is what is there but without the switch, but I read in comments this does not make the light on always just turns the circuit on and off.

I also read that its possible to add a switch and wire from that which is the second screenshot. What options do I have?
Thanks

 

[ericmark]

The diagram you show has the two way centre off switch before the PIR, so it does not power the PIR when switched other way.

The problem is your back feeding the PIR, it depends on the design of the PIR as to if that's a problem or not.

A security light should be out of the human visible spectrum as idea is not to make it easy for the intruder but make it so you can see them without assisting them, so infrared for example, and of course an infrared camera so you can see them.

In the main we actually want a light to assist us and is has nothing to do with security, the use of quartz halogen bulbs resulted in high running costs if left on 24/7, and the PIR also registered daylight so switched off the lamp when light.

Today with LED smart bulbs this needs a re-think, they use less power so having them timed so on at dusk, then off at say 10 pm, then on at 7 pm and off at dawn seems a good option, and the last smart bulb I bought (TCP) had that feature. Since it is used indoors and a GU10 it will not be set to use that option, but I am considering getting some E27 versions for use outside, 9 watt is nothing, not sure I want colour changing having a red light on the house has certain unwanted meanings.

To do what you show in the diagram it need triple and earth cable to PIR and twin and earth to light from PIR. Or other cables if it needs protection from sun.

So this

may seem better, it is the same really I tried putting a ring around each cable, but does not seem to show.

 

[bernardgreen]

Another way is to use a couple of switches

The major advantage if this method is that the two pole overide OFF switch provides easy to achieve full isolation.

Full isolation is necessary for when the lamp and/or PIR goes faulty or gets water logged preventing the FCD from being reset

 

[btb23]

I did something similar with 3 of my PIR, LED security lights. I put the SONOFF switch with a relay in a watertight box added onto the back of the security light.

The new WiFi switch controls the LED light, so when the PIR detects motion it energises the relay which closes the contacts across the switch inputs of the SONOFF. That way I can turn the light on and off remotely, and also turns on with PIR.

I have the SONOFF switch set up so that it will stay on after the PIR triggers, but that's OK because it turns off after 2mins through my home automation software, I use Home Assistant, so the PIR timer on the light itself is now redundant. I have full control of the light remotely.

I also have it setup so that if one security light comes on, they all do, and send a notification my phone, and also when away from home, various inside lights come in such sequence to make it look like someone is in and turning lights on in response the security lights going on. After a while they go off again, in a different sequence.

A quick sketch of the circuit diagram of the SONOFF switch and relay wired up, I forgot to take a photo after rewiring inside the light itself, but it was straightforward.