security light?

From your description the blue should be connected into the bottom left, it sounds like a D.P switch ,this then should totaly disconnect the outside light when switched,with regards it not working have you checked that the lamp is seated in the fitting ,sometimes the end caps do not make contact even though it appears the lamp is in.
 
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I'm a little stumped. There are endless possibilities, but words are not enough: we need visuals!
 
I agree with theshogun about the switch. It certainly sounds like a double pole switch in which case blue should go in bottom left. Are there any markings on the switch? The kind of markings to look for would be LINE, LOAD, IN, OUT, L, or N.

If it is a DP switch and you copied the original wiring, I can see only two reasons why somebody would put blue in with black: ignorance or a duff switch pole. Since you have one fault already, lets not compound the problem by moving the blue wire - yet. If you ever get the light working - and if the markings confirm our belief that it's a DP switch - THEN you should put the blue wire in the right terminal.

To get the light working you are going to need some test equipment. That means a meter or a neon screwdriver. If you're going for the neon driver get a good one with an insulated shaft and make sure it is a neon, not one of those battery powered LED things that also tests fuses.

With a meter you start at the incoming red and black wires then move across to red/yellow and blue. If you have power there (with the switch on of course) proceed to the light. With a neon, power on incoming red is not enough. You must also check for power on black; there shouldn't be any. At the light end you should have power on red/yellow but none on blue.

NB: When probing around live circuits, wear rubber soled shoes and try to keep your other hand in your pocket. With a meter, this will only be possible if you have at least one clip-on lead.
 
well for now now im glad that im right for blocking the yellow. the block at light has an extra terminal with 2 whites in but instruction with light only have wires in first 3 allbeit that they havent allowed for extra live.

so if i were to put the yellow in with red at light it would not be detrimental?
 
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They're joined at the switch end so why not join them at the light end as well. This will not do any harm and will reduce the voltage drop, albeit by very little, along the wire.

That white is most likely switched live, by which I mean switched by the sensor. Maybe this is where you connect a second light to work off the same sensor. Don't take my word for this; it's only a best guess.
 
ok well thanks again for ur replies,tomorrow i will check bulb is right & mayb change blue over & try again.

wot u doin up so late anyways??

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t3zza36, please note 10a ;)
 
well felix turns out u were right i had a good look again today & the bulb was slightly off connecting on 1 side,it was very easy to miss.i might add that i have fitted it properly & everything now works just fine ,so thanks for valid input much appreciated. :p
 
You're welcome but I can't claim the credit for this one. It was theshogun who suggested a badly fitted bulb. Thanks anyway.
 

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