self level kitchen floor??

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hi, i need to level half a kitchen floor up about 6-7mm to meet the other half of the floor. its an extension and that floor seems ok except its higher than the other half. the part i need to raise is also covered with vinyl tiles and tips on the best or easiest way to remove these? advice needed on products, procedures etc as its meant to be gettin done next week, thanks
 
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best and easiest way paul78...elbow grease wee man... ;)

has for slc what is the substrate..timber/concrete?... ;)
 
ye was thinking good old elbow grease, someone mentioned blowtorch them off?? but unsure as never done this before. floor is concrete all the way through with kitchen already in place. is it best to batten up to doorway and kitchen unit legs or just remove the units for the slc to run to the walls? any advice on products ardex, bal etc as i would rather get the quality stuff and make a good job of it rather than doing the job twice.
 
If the tiles are old, the adhesive is usually brittle so try a flat blade spade first; sometimes they come off easier than you might think. Then get as much of the old adhesive off as you can before laying a self levelling screed. Avoid using a blow torch; problems with it are;
• softening bitumen based adhesive releases really nasty fumes
• it can actually make the tiles more difficult to remove
• it will soften & re-activate the bitumen adhesive which may react with the SLC causing a lack of adhesion

Either of the manufacturers you mention make excellent products along with Webber or Mapei (but not the stuff in BnQ). Whatever you chose, you must select the right products for your tiles & the screed.
 
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If the tiles are old, the adhesive is usually brittle so try a flat blade spade first; sometimes they come off easier than you might think. Then get as much of the old adhesive off as you can before laying a self levelling screed. Avoid using a blow torch; problems with it are;
• softening bitumen based adhesive releases really nasty fumes
• it can actually make the tiles more difficult to remove
• it will soften & re-activate the bitumen adhesive which may react with the SLC causing a lack of adhesion

Either of the manufacturers you mention make excellent products along with Webber or Mapei (but not the stuff in BnQ). Whatever you chose, you must select the right products for your tiles & the screed.
thanks for that, been reading so much on the forum of experienced chaps like yourself in the archives etc. cant thankyou enough, one more thing... once the slc has dried out would i look to try and start the tiling so that the join of old and new concrete would have the tiles staggered across them for strength??
 
slc..
weber niv range
mapei ultraplan
bal,they have 3/4 new ones out solidbase, thickbase etc...

between the old and new concrete you should have an exspansion/movement joint...follow up thro your tiles.
 
been reading lots and the weber.niv plus or weber.floor flex data sheets are looking like the right choices for the floor, and experience from yourselves in these two products??
 
they are both good slc paul...
they are cement based if i rember so will be fast setting..
just follow mfr inst..re:priming floor etc..

mixing:just get yourself a paint mixing paddle(5-10 pounds from the sheds) and a 14/18v battery drill,mix small batches at first till you get the hang off it.

wee tip for you also to stop the slc running out door threshold/to far under units etc..

pour some of the powder(dry) along the area etc.. this acts as a barrier stopping it running out etc...

pour your mix starting in far corner working your way backwards only work an area you will be sable to reach,so if you have small arms. small area at a time,leave it for a few min then just trowel smooth.

you could also use a spiked roller if you have one..

my slc off choice is the F-Ball range the latex based ones..

best off bud.. ;)
 

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