Shed cladding

[suzey]

I have water seeping through my cladding (tongue and groove) on one side of my shed. It is not an old shed so looks perfect from the outside (painted with two coats of Sadolin). I don't really want to strip off all the panels, do you think I could put some sheets of marine ply on the outside (it won't be seen from the front) or do you think I should somehow waterproof it from the inside? Any assistance really appreciated, thanks.

 

[Burnerman]

Water usually comes through the ends of the panels on these, rather than through the cladding itself - the design of which usually does quite a good job of casting the water off, really.
The marine ply will eventually deteriorate and delaminate so it could be an idea to consider some silicone sealer in the problem areas first.
John

 

[suzey]

Aww thanks for your reply John. I did'nt want to go into my 'disaster shed' or I would bore you all but the water does seem to be seeping through the boards, they were full of cracks and small holes when I received the shed so prior to painting I filled them with wood filler which obviously has'nt worked. The weather seems to come in that side.

If you don't think the marine ply would work, how about me putting some new cladding over the existing? (sorry pathetic female diyer )

 

[merlin50]

tongue and groove ia a bad idea for sheds, feather edge is waterproof or shiplap.

 

[Burnerman]

I would think that your shed is actually constructed with featheredge boards, rather than tongue and groove - although the principle is similar!
Featheredge stuff casts the water away, rather than allowing it to seep through, and I guess your problem is that the original boards have shrunk somewhat.
So, the choice is yours really - either remove the existing boards (which would be time consuming and could compromise the shed structure) or clad over the top.
So long as the roof has enough overhang to cast the water away, there shouldn't be a problem cladding over.
The usual DIY sheds should supply you with what you need, and ask their advice regarding copper or galvanised nails for fixing. The original boards would benefit from another coat of waterproofer because once the job is done, its permanently sealed. Pay particular attention to the proofing and fixing of the end grain on the new boards.
John

 

[big-all]

is it possible to have a picture as there can be several causes to your problem
as said above usually shrinkage related

 

[suzey]

Thanks so much for your help, much appreciated.

Sorry it is shiplap, not t & g At the moment its dry, but you can see a patch where the wet came through on one of the panels in the last photo. The shed was a disaster from the start, tried to get the company to replace it, but could'nt get anywhere and at the time was caring for a terminally ill parent so did'nt really have the fight in me.

I would really like now to get it rainproof as I want to use it as a hobby shed and get electric put in, but don't want to do that until its safe.

I really appreciate any assistance. Thanks x

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/sueflet/shed-1.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/sueflet/IMAG0315.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/sueflet/IMAG0320.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/sueflet/IMAG0321.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/sueflet/IMAG0316.jpg[u][/u]

 

[merlin50]

that is a badly built shed its to late now but it should have a breather membrane fitted to the frame before the cladding was fitted, you could put feather edge on the outside

 

[big-all]

they have 2 fixings per plank that wont help when the timber dries it will split

what sort off treatment is on the shed??

 

[Burnerman]

Just a few points about this - it seems to be a fairly typical shed, i.e poorly built and to a price but it will do the job to a degree.
Leaking issues!
1) Water ingress is very common around the window 'frames' - top, bottom and sides.
2) The next area is where the horizontal featheredge planks contact the vertical uprights, both on the corners and on the door / window frames.
3) Where the roof felt is turned down on its sides, its kept in place with timber laths with nails through. Hence the felt is penetrated and it will probably split where its folded anyway.
So - hasten ye to B&Q and buy a couple of tubes of their general purpose silicone sealant. Apply it generally to the areas mentioned with a sealant gun, and - most importantly - press it into the seams hard with a rubber gloved finger. I reckon most of your issues will be addressed after this.
The joins between the featheredge timber seem reasonable, but in high winds / horizontal rain you will get some water coming in.
Enjoy!
John

 

[suzey]

Thank you, you have all been very helpful. The shed was £700 and supposedly treated wood, which I dispute after seeing it in the rain before I painted it . I thought I was buying a quality shed and did'nt think of it as a cheap purchase. Maybe I am naive?

I am so disappointed with it that I am seriously thinking of cutting my losses and buying a new one. Could anyone point me in the direction of what to look for next time and a quality shed company.

Many thanks x

 

[Burnerman]

Suzey I've no idea how much you want to spend, but check out Screwfix's log cabin range - example 27281.
You'll find all sheds built to a minimum standard - i.e poor - but if you want to go upmarket, consider a concrete building such as the Compton range. Dead easy to put up, so long as the base is good and level.
John

 

[suzey]

Thanks Burnerman, will have a look at those. Am thinking maybe I would be better buying a garden room, I know it would be more expensive, but I need something of quality that I can use as a room.

 

[big-all]

the finish applied to any wood/shed is normally only the undercoat
you need several coats to finish and preserve the wood
you buy another shed it will be the same as the one you have it will need to be finished on erection
you should have given it several preservative layers rather than paint that cant breath and dry out

not a critisim but outdoor wood needs to be properly treated and allowed to "breath"

 

[suzey]

the finish applied to any wood/shed is normally only the undercoat
you need several coats to finish and preserve the wood
you buy another shed it will be the same as the one you have it will need to be finished on erection
you should have given it several preservative layers rather than paint that cant breath and dry out

not a critisim but outdoor wood needs to be properly treated and allowed to "breath"

Thanks for that ...I did lots of research before painting the shed and I thought I was buying a good quality paint in Sadolin. Several websites recommended it as well as a beach hut company, which I thought was a good recommend. I can see what you are saying