shed flooring question

[seneca]

Not sure if this is in the right forum, but:

I have built the framework for the base of a shed and want to put some treated t&g over it. Are there any tips for putting it down? I know it should be staggered, but that's about it.
- what kind of nails should I use?
- do I need to have the t&g parts tightly fitted? or should I leave a slight gap for expansion? if so how to I get the gap to be even? if I stick a match in, do I then pull it out afterwards?

Also,
I have a load of 25mm polystyrene that I was thinking of putting down before I borded on top. what's the best way to put it down?
my frame looks like it is full of small rectangle gaps (imagine the long lengths of wood, with cross-braces going the opposite way) should I cut the polystyrene to fit the entire rectangle, or leave a gap somewhere?
How much space should there be between the flooring and the polystyrene?

any advice would be greatly appreciated. h

 

[Deluks]

Also,
I have a load of 25mm polystyrene that I was thinking of putting down before I borded on top. what's the best way to put it down?

Horizontally

This t&g, is it leftover cladding? how thick?

You should cut the poly to size and wedge it in, no need for gaps. Whats under the shed? there should be ventilation underneath, and preferaby a dpm too.

 

[seneca]

Hi Deluks,

The flooring is treated T&G floorboards 20mm. I've got the base ready and now just want to lay down the floor. The floorboards are 4500mm long and my shed is 3000mm wide. Should I nail down a full length, and then use the 1500mm left over to start the next line. The finish it with another 1500mm, and finally put the remaining 3000mm as a full line. The resart the whole thing. Hope that makes sense. I was thinking, should I go right to the edge of the frame, or leave 5mm all around to allow for expansion?

Also,looking at the t&g, the tongue is not bang in the centre, so should I lay it with the tongue near the top of the floor, or with the tongue nearer the joist?

 

[Deluks]

Yes stagger the boards, don't have all one side 3000 and the other side 1500, that will look daft unles you build a wall on top
I'd go with 10mm expansion as it's a shed and will be subjected to a variation of temp/humidity throughout the year.

 

[big-all]

if i am understanding this correctly you are nailing a floor onto supporting battons / joists

where you join depends on where the joists are as you neeed to join on a joist i would also cut another length round about the 700m or wherever a joist is

so you would have a full length a 700 length a full length a 1500 length a full length then introduce the 700 from the oposite side so you have a greater spread of joins

unless your joists are exactl spaced you are likely to have around 200mm waste per length which will move the join one joist each time anyway

i would assuming the boards are reasonably dry just butt them up tight

 

[seneca]

cheers guys.

I decided to stagger them. Only the first length is the full 3m. I then started the next length with the left over bit.

The reason I asked about the butting together tightly, or leaving a gap was I recall someone saying that when using shiplap cladding - place a match between each lengthso it could expand. I suppose it would be better to butt them tightly as then the floor would be smooth. Otherwise, the tiny gap left would get filled with dust, soil, sawdust etc, and be a pain to sweep clean.

 

[big-all]

yes its advisable to leave a gap on cladding if its fully dry of around 3mm this will allow expansion in the wet without the timber being put under to much pressure

this does not apply to flooring as its only ever damp rather than soaked with rain