Short copper stub on isolation valve to bath tap

[crfenny]

I’ve got a bath tap connected to this isolation valve. If I try and loosen nut 2 nut 3 gets in the way.

And if I try and loosen nut 3 nut is in the way. There’s a stub of copper for a tail.

I’ve heard if I turn nut 1 I could damage the valve.

thinking of putting a new iso valve in but there’s not much usable copper pipe under the current isolation valve, with a 90 degree bend.

Any tips or advice much appreciated!

 

[Wayners]

I think.
Turn water off.
Undo 4 and lift off.
Should be able to turn the existing isolation valve to release from 3.

You need to then alter the pipe work to accommodate new fittings.

 

[SimonH2]

That's more than a bit on the short side.
I find it hard the believe that nut 2 or nut 3 won't turn independently. You should be able to undo nut 3 - but might need 3 spanners (and hands) to turn nut 3 while holding "nut 1" (which is the body of the flexy end fitting) and the body of the valve.
As nut 3 is undone, the pipe will need to pull out of the fitting. If it goes tight (against nut 2), it just means the pipe is tight in the valve and might need a bit of persuasion to come out.

 

[MadgeBruen]

I’ve got a bath tap connected to this isolation valve. If I try and loosen nut 2 nut 3 gets in the way.

And if I try and loosen nut 3 nut is in the way. There’s a stub of copper for a tail.

I’ve heard if I turn nut 1 I could damage the valve.

thinking of putting a new iso valve in but there’s not much usable copper pipe under the current isolation valve, with a 90 degree bend.

Any tips or advice much appreciated!


View attachment 394041
geometry dash lite

Instead of removing it completely, try loosening each nut a half turn first, alternating between nuts 2 and 3. This helps relieve pressure at the same time and avoids sticking.

 

[crfenny]

Thanks for the help all. WD40 freed up the top nut. Then held nut 2 with grips and got the flexi tail out.