Should a novice do this?

[StevenUK]

Hi everyone,

I am considering fitting my own shower, and extending a piece of copper piping to fit the water mixers, etc. using compression fittings, etc. to run from the existing water pipe

I have never done any plumbing before, but watching a few videos, it does not look too difficult (no offence to trained plumbers, etc).

So the question is, is it easy enough to do for a novice, or would you advise getting a plumber in?

Thanks.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If the pipework to be extended is to be concealed, I would recommend capillary soldering rather than compression but if pipes are accessible, compression joints are not too difficult to make, also handy to have some PTFE tape or plumbers mate at hand to make a good seal but really should not be need on compression joints.

 

[StevenUK]

Thanks.

No, not concealed, I need to run a copper tube from the existing water supply (hot and cold), that have capped off ends at present, so I thought:

1) turn stock cock
2) run taps to drain water.
3) take end caps off existing pipes.
4) 2 x compression elbows.
5) connect new pipes to elbows.
6) compression connectors onto mixer taps of shower (shower pod).

It's just leaks I am concerned about, having never done any plumbing before, but looking at youtube videos, looks fairly straight forward.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Isolation service valves for shower would be required.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

1) turn stock cock good start
2) run taps to drain water.okay
3) take end caps off existing pipes. right
4) 2 x compression elbows. if elbows are needed, yes
5) connect new pipes to elbows. I would fit service valves
6) compression connectors onto mixer taps of shower (shower pod). okay

It's just leaks I am concerned about

I would get a bit of plumbers mate on the olive to body of fitting, as this will help create a better seal, and if you then fit service valves, you will have very quick accessibility to isolate supply if any issues further downstream of this.

 

[mogget]

May i suggest getting a pipeslice type pipe cutter? Will make the job a lot easier.

Don't do compression joints up too tight or they will leak, they don't need to be done with force particularly if the pipework is 15mm.

 

[StevenUK]

Thanks for replies.

And the pipe slicer is already on order, as was on my list of things to buy.

The isolation valves? They were also on my list of things to buy, although I did wonder, do all taps, sinks, showers, etc. have these valves?

I looked earlier, and the toilet has one, the bidet has one, etc. etc. never noticed before as I am not a plumber, but I assume now that all taps have one, in case the taps fail?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It is advisable to fit service valves to all appliances, this helps when it comes to servicing/replacing them, means you have nearby means of isolation and you don't need to isolate the whole system and drain it all down.

 

[St0rmer66]

Make sure you buy "FULL BORE" isolation valves for a shower. The standard ones will effectively reduce your 15mm pipe to about 8mm. Not a big deal on a tap or toilet for example but on a shower it makes a HUGE difference to the pressure! They cost only a few quid more but we'll worth it (I speak from experience of fitting the wrong ones on my own shower until I realised what I'd done!).

 

[Newboy]

And don't use Plumber's Mait

If you use compression joints then use either

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-water-hawk-400g/21548

or

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-ls-x-leak-sealer/23614

 

[mogget]

+1 for Water Hawk. Great stuff.

 

[JohnD]

PTFE tape on the olives gives a clean, easy, and very reliable seal.

Old plumbers pretend their joints never leak and deny using it.

 

[longdogs]

Thanks for replies.

And the pipe slicer is already on order, as was on my list of things to buy.

The isolation valves? They were also on my list of things to buy, although I did wonder, do all taps, sinks, showers, etc. have these valves?

I looked earlier, and the toilet has one, the bidet has one, etc. etc. never noticed before as I am not a plumber, but I assume now that all taps have one, in case the taps fail?

it's a good idea from the installers point of view to fit isolation valves. This gives you control of the water. Assuming the valves are fairly close by, it saves you running backwards and forwards to the stop cock if there is a leak problem.

 

[StevenUK]

PTFE tape on the olives gives a clean, easy, and very reliable seal.

Old plumbers pretend their joints never leak and deny using it.

Am I right in thinking, that when fitting the compression, with olives, that you close the compression, so that the olives bite and seal to connection, then you re-open (un-screw) the compression nut, THEN put the compound over the olive, and put the nut back on again (re-screw) it back up?

Thanks.

 

[mogget]

I usually put the nut and olive on the pipe, put a smear of jointing compound where the olive will seat, and assemble, twisting the olive into the jointing compound. Where drain down / access is easy, I don't use any jointing compound and only then apply it if there's a troublesome weep.