Should new loft conversion to regs retain heat well, or will always lose heat fast?

Here's a video. Just shows a few thin sheets and where I put my fingers down under it I can feel the plasterboard

 
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It's not 105mm I don't think anywhere near. You can see it in the video.
 
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Does anyone think the 2 sheets of actis triso is good enough to retain heat? It doesn't seem very thick.

If it is, then I'm wondering if the veluxes are letting out all the heat?

Or it occurred to me that the end walls probably don't have cavity wall insulation like rest of the house as they don't inject that high. The end walls are cold they plastered right in the brick.
 
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The veluxes should be ok. With insulation it's a lot about attention to detail, probably more so with that foil stuff. What's under the rafters and ceiling joists to eliminate cold bridging?

I did a loft conversion to regs 20 years ago and had to insulate the gable wall.

If done correctly heat loss should be minimal.

Solution might be to line internally with pir and reboard.
 
The veluxes should be ok. With insulation it's a lot about attention to detail, probably more so with that foil stuff. What's under the rafters and ceiling joists to eliminate cold bridging?

You mean the floor of the attic, so ceiling above bedrooms? Thats the same as its always been, which is about 100mm fibreglass insulation, they didn't do anything with that so should be the same as it was.
 
However, it shouldn't be losing heat too quickly, let's say 3 degree/hour.
My loft conversion loses roughly 1 degree every 2 hours and I didn't go mad on insulation .
I got a temperature monitor in and heated the room using a camping heater I have.

- 8:45am today was 12 degrees C (rest of house about 17 degrees - door to attic closed)
- Heated with a 1500W small camping heater for an hour - got to 16.5 degrees C
- Turned heater off, then 1 hour later was 14.2 degrees C.

So it lost about 2 to 2.5 degrees over 1 hour.

The rate of heat loss slowed down as it approaches the starting temperature of 12 degrees. So I assume if it was around 18 to 19 degrees C starting point it would lose more than 2.5 degrees in that hour.

I cant get it up to 18 degrees though to start, as I think the radiator is too small, or not hot enough, and even leaving door open to rest of the house with heating on, it does not seem to get up to 18 degrees either.
 
The company that signed off the regs emailed me to say its "all in order". So can a room confirm to regs but be really cold?
 
Let me guess, an independent inspector appointed by the builder. Two layers of Triso will not comply and infact you cannot use Triso wihout a 100mm of rigid for a loft conversion. These foil layer insulations are rubbish and completely pointless. They were a fad about 15 years ago and supposidly could replace 80mm of rigid insulation or so and then the testing was found to be fraudulant (not floored but fraudulent), then afterwards they said it can only be used in conjuncion with rigid insulation and with an air gap either side, thus removing any advantage whatsoever of using them, they have no practical use in loft conversions.
 
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Let me guess, an independent inspector appointed by the builder. Two layers of Triso will not comply and infact you cannot use Triso wihout a 100mm of rigid for a loft conversion. These foil layer insulations are rubbish and completely pointless. They were a fad about 15 years ago and supposidly could replace 80mm of rigid insulation or so and then the testing was found to be fraudulant (not floored but fraudulent), then afterwards they said it can only be used in conjuncion with rigid insulation and with an air gap either side, thus removing any advantage whatsoever of using them, they have no practical use in loft conversions.
Don't know if they comply or not, but I came across 2 rolls for £20 a few years ago and lined my shed inside.
In winter I put the oil filled radiator on, temperature gets to 18 degrees and stays there for hours after I turn the heater off.
 

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