Or one could connect the wires directly and put a self contained mcb unit in loft? which is probably what the old owners did because why would they disconnect it at consumer unit, could possibley be for extra safety i suppose.
danielbb said:Nope the cover suggests the other half is for a whole new block of mcbs and isolator, hence no place to fix another in.
Is the direct connecting with unit in loft not allowed?
No, you can't just bung some 6/10mm² in the isolator with only the suppliers fuse protecting it.
That's because you have a split-load board. There should be an RCD, supplied by the first busbar, supplying the second one, where you put circuits such as sockets likely to be used to supply portable equipment outdoors. Also a good place for shower MCBs.danielbb said:Nope the cover suggests the other half is for a whole new block of mcbs and isolator, hence no place to fix another in.
You did suggest exactly that.danielbb said:No, you can't just bung some 6/10mm² in the isolator with only the suppliers fuse protecting it.
Im not stupid, i never suggested that. you called that idea your suggesting a bodge just.![]()
You're expending an awful lot of time and effort groping towards a solution for someone who is just interested in the answer but plans to have an electrician do the work.danielbb said:I dont want too, i probably wont be me doing it myself, and if i do it will def be checked.
That's because you have a split-load board. There should be an RCD, supplied by the first busbar, supplying the second one, where you put circuits such as sockets likely to be used to supply portable equipment outdoors. Also a good place for shower MCBs.
You're expending an awful lot of time and effort groping towards a solution for someone who is just interested in the answer but plans to have an electrician do the work.
Please lose the "probably" from your plans, you really don't know enough to be doing this, and asking odd questions here, as they occur to you, is not a way to learn...
Yes.danielbb said:Cheers, There is no second bus bar or RCD, is that the way to go then?
The problem is that you don't know what you don't know. In other words, there may be some important knowledge that you need, but you have absolutely no idea that it exists, and absolutely no idea that you don't posess it, and so absolutely no chance that you'll ask about it. Only asking about things of which you have an awareness, and where you recognise a hole in your knowledge is not guaranteed to teach you what you need to know.You're expending an awful lot of time and effort groping towards a solution for someone who is just interested in the answer but plans to have an electrician do the work.
Please lose the "probably" from your plans, you really don't know enough to be doing this, and asking odd questions here, as they occur to you, is not a way to learn...
I disagree, that and read books is the way to learn.
People do, and so far your questions, the lack of answers to important ones you've been asked, and your failure to recognise the dreadful, potentially fatal, mistake in your plan for connecting an external MCB do not fill me with confidence...Do you honestly think id turn on or connect anything in th CU before having it checked!!!
It's not the neutral wire that's the problem - of course you'll need one of those going to the enclosure - how else will you supply the shower with a neutral? I note that you don't show the earth wire though - another important consideration.About the drawing. That 45 box it an mcb, don't know why i put a neutral wire running to it. If its wrong why not say instead of moaning.
And if you don't want to take advice, please don't ask for it.If you don't want to help me please dont reply.![]()
Yes it is wrong, and against the regulations, and dangerous unless the wire is thick enough (e.g. 25mm²) for the service fuse (e.g. 100A) to provide adequate protection. And it would probably be difficult to get a thick enough cable in there and ensure that it and the busbar were properly clamped down, and therefore that might be dangerous.Thats how i meant it to look, other picture was misleading. I take it its wrong then, or against regulations to connect a wire like that to the bus bar.
Electrician is definately doing it now, but id still like to learn all the same.
The problem is that you don't know what you don't know. In other words, there may be some important knowledge that you need, but you have absolutely no idea that it exists, and absolutely no idea that you don't posess it, and so absolutely no chance that you'll ask about it. Only asking about things of which you have an awareness, and where you recognise a hole in your knowledge is not guaranteed to teach you what you need to know
Saying its just wrong with out an explanation aint much help, how would i learn from it.And if you don't want to take advice, please don't ask for it.
People do, and so far your questions, the lack of answers to important ones you've been asked, and your failure to recognise the dreadful, potentially fatal, mistake in your plan for connecting an external MCB do not fill me with confidence...
So for an internal MCB it must be connected by a bus bar never a short length of cable.Yes it is wrong, and against the regulations, and dangerous unless the wire is thick enough (e.g. 25mm²) for the service fuse (e.g. 100A) to provide adequate protection. And it would probably be difficult to get a thick enough cable in there and ensure that it and the busbar were properly clamped down, and therefore that might be dangerous.
It is wrong, and against the regulations, and dangerous to use exposed single-insulated cables like that.
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local