shower tiling

[Bbuk2004]

hello all,

i have a shower on the third floor and recently the plastic tray cracked and starting leaking on to the second floor.

so i took the shower out whcih had the upstill and buried in to the wall.

the bottom tiles came of easily but upon inspection the layer above came off . so its obvious water has gone in and the plaster board is damp. one side of teh wall is the main wall and other is partitioned.

so i let the walls dry and fited a few tiles but next day they came off.

so i need to replace the partion wall plaster board with aqua board.

is this just a matter of cutting the old one out fitting the new ones, i understand these board doesnt need plastering and i can fix the tile straight on? aslo i couldnt get the shower tray that goes in to the wall so i just bought the flat stone tray and fitted the old base from the old tray.

also is it possible to replaced the shower door glass its cracked.i want to replace it wtih plastic to prevent further breakge.

this is a new build from 2005, any chance it could be covered under warranty via nhbc or something

 

[Richard C]

!

so i need to replace the partion wall plaster board with aqua board.

Don’t use Aquaboard in your shower it still only plaster board & unless you tank it, won't last much longer than before; ues a decent 12.5mm waterproof tile backer board.

is this just a matter of cutting the old one out fitting the new ones,

A bit simplistic but yes, more or less.

i understand these board doesnt need plastering and i can fix the tile straight on?

Yes it’s best but you might need primer depending on the adhesive you use which will depend on your tile size/weight.

aslo i couldnt get the shower tray that goes in to the wall so i just bought the flat stone tray and fitted the old base from the old tray.

The tray doesn't need an upstand burried into the wall as long as the tiles overlap the tray. What sort of stone tray have you bought & what sort of base are you mounting it on? Unless it's designed to fit a base, a stone resin tray MUST be fully supported on a weak mortar mix or they will crack, you cant just support them on a frame.

also is it possible to replaced the shower door glass its cracked.i want to replace it wtih plastic to prevent further breakge.

Laminated safety glass needs a pretty good whack to crack it but don't replace with plastic, it will scratch & look total crap in a very short space of time.

this is a new build from 2005, any chance it could be covered under warranty via nhbc or something

You can try but NHBC will not be in the slightest bit interested, they will just refer you to the builder initially & he will say its normal wear & tear & so will NHBC if you push it further. If you consider the standard of new builds are (generally & certainly 7 years ago) you’ve done well for your shower to last 7 years. A shower built to minimal (virtually no) standard will last around 5 years & sometimes as little as 3 before it needs doing properly; this sort of refurbishment that pay's my way but my spec will last you a minimum 10 years & up to 20 years with minimal maintenance.

 

[OJJ]

The glass in shower door should be toughened safety glass (sometimes referred to as tempered) conforming to European standard EN12150 (previously British standard 6206). Toughened safety glass is very strong although it will shatter into small pieces if severely damaged, it should not crack.

If the door is glass, and not acrylic, and it has cracked you should contact the manufacturer and have it inspected.

 

[Bbuk2004]

i have bought a brand new 760x760 shower enclousre for £30. result

i used the old tray mounting which consisted of square wooden batten around the edge of the shower tray and a big board in the middle. 5 adjustable foots where screw on the batton and the board in the middle.

so i stuck the battons with no more nails on the edge and used the same board and no more nails. it seems proper strong and doesnt move. however i can't seem to get it level on both eges with a level.

for addtional support i will put blocks of wood under the tray. does this seem ok?

i showed the wwall to my freind and he doesnt think the plaster is wet and advised me to put some kind sealant on the plaster and tile it up. i told him to break the wall and put tile backer on but he insisted there is no need

my only concern now is i cant get this tray to be level. if i get on side level the side is out. i know ppl say that if its not level it will cause problem fitting the enclosure but what can i do?