shower trap for 25mm ply

[helix]

hi,

I'm putting 25mm ply direct onto joists. Shower tray will be fixed with mortar on top.

The shower trap I have does not have enough distance between where it sits flush with the bottom of the shower tray, and where the waste pipe is connected.

Is there a type of trap or extension I can get to allow for a deeper flooring?

thanks,
alex

 

[bengasman]

Whatever setup you are making, it must allow for trap cleaning and pipe-rodding.
How does the ply make any difference to the trap fitting? Whether you fit it directly on the floor, on 25mm ply or on a plinth, the distances stay the same.

 

[big-all]

when i fitted my shower tray on 25mm ply i had to remove 6mm to allow the waste pipe to screw on at r/angles i used an angle grinder with a diamond blade cutting gently with a side to side motion till i had a hollow big enough for the serated plastic nut to locate and screw on easily

 

[helix]

when i fitted my shower tray on 25mm ply i had to remove 6mm to allow the waste pipe to screw on at r/angles i used an angle grinder with a diamond blade cutting gently with a side to side motion till i had a hollow big enough for the serated plastic nut to locate and screw on easily

Exactly, I have the same issue! It's like the trap was designed for an 18mm flooring. Thanks for the tip, although I don't have an angle grinder, but I can borrow a router which should do the job!

cheers

 

[charliechaplinspants]

The trap needs to be accessible after the tray/flooring is fitted.

 

[big-all]

sharp chisel
go carefully with a router cut 3mm at a time and remember the cutters will pull the router off line left to right will pull away from you right to left will pull towards you

measure the base plate from cutter edge say its 60mm
measure the plastic nut and decide the clearence required
mark the oblong on the wood say its 50mm wide by 70mm long cut 2 lengths off batton 190mm long
mark another oblong 60mm away [or whatever the router base size is]to match the router base

nail the battons along the long edge with the ends on the lines
you can now work freehand in the area stopping on the lines or at the end off the battons with the base plate

 

[helix]

good technique big-all, thanks.

the waste is one of those where the trap is accessible from the top. I assume that is ok?

 

[charliechaplinspants]

As long as you dont have a leak where the waste pipe enters the trap, all will be fine.

 

[helix]

true, but the same could be said of any plumbing, cables etc. under a tiled floor. You have to draw the line somewhere.

 

[charliechaplinspants]

Fair enough, what will you do if a leak develops between the trap and tray? what will you do if the mechanical nut holding the waste pipe to the trap backs off due to vibration, happens all the time and I`ve cut out and ruined plenty of ceilings because the installer said ` once it`s in Luv yer won`t have to worry about it` How much fall from the trap to the outside drain do you have? probably none, Do it properly & fit a plinth with access. Cowboy

 

[bengasman]

true, but the same could be said of any plumbing, cables etc. under a tiled floor. You have to draw the line somewhere.

Currently on a job replacing the whole bathroom due to leaking compression fits under the floor.
It is illegal to put junction boxes under the floor and tile over it.
Illegal to have compressionfits on gaspipes under the floor.
Waste pipe must be rodable.
If you need to cut a whole in the floor to fit the trap, not much chance you will have the compulsory minimum fall. Which of course sooner or later will block the pipe.

 

[helix]

I do appreciate the advice. Don't think insults are required though. diyer rather than cowboy

the fall is approx 12cm over a 3 metre run.

If necessary, the waste can be rodded from the other end of the pipe outside.

Any issues with that?

 

[bengasman]

Should be ok.