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Single skin garage toilet insulating advice requested

Discussion in 'Building' started by GlennSpray68, 14 Mar 2020.

  1. GlennSpray68

    GlennSpray68

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    Hi All ,

    hope someone can point me in the right direction.

    I am updating my garage toilet and after having the windows replaced with DG ones I am then going to fit 10mm thick , cellular 100% waterproof cladding panels.

    The problem I have encountered is I have removed the t&G wooden cladding that was in situ and the plaster had fully blown and literally fell off.

    I am going to replace the washbasin but need to hang it on the wall, so I will need some heavy duty fixings.

    Also the width is very limited so battening and insulating the wall is a non starter

    I intend to point all the gaps etc before anything else.

    Plumbing pipes etc are to be rerouted.

    Would I be better to :

    1. Replaster the wall with some sort of waterproof plaster , then fix the panels directly to the plaster with grab adhesive. I realise this may lead to the blown plaster scenario again.

    2. Paint the wall with isoflex then fasten some vapour plasterboard foil tape and seal the joints then panel over this.

    3. Alternatively ,Paint the wall with isoflex then fasten Aquapanel Floor Tile Underlay which is only 6mm thick to the bricks then panel after that.

    Or any other suggestions that anyone can provide.

    Many Thanks in advance for any help provided.

    IMG_20200314_173800.jpg IMG_20200314_173745.jpg
     
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  3. noseall

    noseall

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    I'm not sure what level of comfort you are trying to achieve or what the ultimate use of the building will be, but it sounds like a very low end renovation to me. Being blunt - putting lipstick on a pig comes to mind...?

    In answer to your questions of 'would it would be better' etc, one would need to know your ultimate aim.

    Is that a single brick pier in the image or is it a nib and the wall travels beyond the window jamb? If its just a pier - don't slam the window.(n)
     
  4. Mottie

    Mottie

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    It’s a garage crapper. Go in, do your business and leave although it looks like you will be crapping in a conservatory. Get some curtains! :whistle:
     
  5. GlennSpray68

    GlennSpray68

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    Morning noseall, thanks for your reply.
    In answer to your question, I think the pier is a nib.
    Ultimate aim is to make a clean usable toilet, it is a bit nippy in the winter, so no hanging about then reading the mirror for 1/2 hour with a cup of tea like my old dad did:LOL:.
    I would love to fully insulate it etc, but due to the need for a washbasin and its width. I cannot add too much depth to the wall on the right.
    My main concern is to prevent damp entering through the single skin.

    Thanks again for all your help it is greatly appreciated.

    Glenn
     
  6. Mottie

    Mottie

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    We’ve got a cold bog in our workshop garage. I just send a trainee in to warm the seat before I go in there. :D
     
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  8. noseall

    noseall

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    Very difficult without adding thickness.

    Normally you'd look at building a stud wall in front of the existing wall, along with gaps, polythene, insulation etc.

    Next best would be to trap DPM against the wall with 25mm tanolised battens etc.

    Low end and least desirable would be a waterproof render directly onto the masonry. This may hold back the damp but not the cold and it will be brittle and subject to any brick movement.
     
  9. mrgobby

    mrgobby

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    Blown plaster gained you extra 12-15mm to insulate it then! Any heating going in? Sounds like damp may have caused Pb to blow, any dpc? Mechanically fix 25mm insulated plasterboard to walls or cheaper option line with thin eps boards ad affix your panels over top maybe
     
  10. cdbe

    cdbe

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    Leave wash basin in a recess and insulate round it. Or replace with a slimline basin.
     
  11. Hugh Jaleak

    Hugh Jaleak

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    I'd be looking at keeping that pipework from freezing too, lagging will help keep any residual heat within the pipework, but wont prevent it from freezing altogether.
     
  12. GlennSpray68

    GlennSpray68

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    Hi all sorry for the delay in responding back to you all, but I have been a very busy.
    Thanks for all your replies it is very much appreciated. I have managed to find enough depth to allow for a dpc fastened with treated 25mm battens then 25mm eps polystyrene insulation board friction fitted a nd stuck with foam. Then the 10mm wall panel over the of that.
    I am going to redo all the pipework and insulate etc.
    Just a couple of quick questions
    Do I dpc before the insulation, wall side or after the insulation before the panels.
    Where the dpc is punctured by fixings what is the best way to seal it.
    Is it OK to put the eps in the roof void, the wall panels are class 1vfire rated.
    Many thanks in advance for your help
    Best regards Glenn
     
  13. DIYnot Local

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