In the late 50's early 60's the caravan holiday was cheap, and people got a caravan to have a cheap holiday, so there was a big DIY part of maintaining the caravan. Today it is no longer a cheap holiday, unless hiring a caravan already sited, either way, very little DIY except those who started back when it was cheap, and also the cars have changed, with MOBUS and stop/start so often one can't DIY even if you wanted to.
I lived in a touring caravan for a time, when on the build of Sizewell 'B' and second seven crossing, and stopped seeing living in a caravan as a holiday. I found I needed a battery as so much designed to run off a battery, but I was using a 7 Ah battery, and it was more like a capacitor absorbing peak demands.
Typical caravan battery size was 60 Ah to 120 Ah with 90 Ah likely the most common size, often 120 Ah would not fit in the battery box, and 90 Ah was about the largest that would fit, so not selected as that was the best size, but selected to fit the space.
I have two ex-vehicle batteries, both 90 Ah AGM (VRLA) the problem with the sealed battery, is it needs a special charger, I use a Lidi one

about the cheapest one can buy, think Aldi also do one, rated 5 amps (early ones were 3.8 amps) and in the main it will only charge at 5 amps for first ½ hour, by that point the charge rate has stepped down, the days of the 30 amp charger have gone, they are only any good with a flooded lead acid battery, that one can top up, so the solar panel output of 1 or 2 amp is not really a problem being so low, but it means the controller is often expensive.
These likely can do a good job, but as one moves to cheaper versions, some simply don't look after the battery, but just try to extract the maxium from the solar, be it MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) or older PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) one crosses one fingers and hopes it's a good one, as not enough are used by the trade user to be able to compare how well they look after the battery, so who can say how this
will work? In the main 6 termials two to panel, two to battery and two to the load.
so in some versions, even if the solar panel is only 10 watt, if you want to use something taking 500 watt, then the controller needs to be rated 500 watt, and the controller uses power, so there is a minium size which is worthwhile. I have looked at kits
and I will admit tempting, 220 watt/hour when looking at 12 volts, = 18 amp/hour, and you have 230 volts (300 watt) USB and Cig socket for 12 volts, plus the solar 100 watt, all sold as a complete kit, not a clue how good it is, but it has everything and more to what my jump start kit has, except for the jump start bit, and is portable so easy enough to take home to recharge if solar is not enough. I have also looked at these
as yet not permitted in this country, but used a lot in Germany, it seems there are more and more options, and the price of solar is coming down.