• Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.

Smart socket adaptors, which do what?

Joined
27 Jan 2008
Messages
27,400
Reaction score
3,307
Location
Llanfair Caereinion, Nr Welshpool
Country
United Kingdom
I had to re-assign what one smart adaptors did, it now runs a fan in wife's bedroom, so replaced same make Tapo two version in Screwfix so went for the cheap one, and noted on the box "Energy Monitoring" the much more expensive Wiser one has energy monitoring, 1752494833730.png bit basic, and a delay showing use, but it's a plus, but the Tapo 1752494954869.png1752495013312.png a much cheaper unit, and shows a lot more, it even allows me to enter peak and off-peak prices to work out what it has cost, does not really work for me, as I have solar, so cost depends on what the sun is doing. Last one was P100, it failed after around 2 years, and started acting as a flasher unit, new one is P110, it looks the same, but clearly improved. The first I got was Energenie I still have two, one which only monitors, I use it to test freezers every so often, don't want them by accident turned off, and one will also switch on/off as well. The Wiser one was because the TRV would not work without it, seems very overpriced. I have another one, can't remember make, will need to get steps out to reach it.

So what have others used, and how have you found them, I also have a 4 socket Energenie and a Lidi 3 socket one with USB as well. Both work well. I have lost a few Energenie devices, but most were Energenie and got them first, so most over 6 years old.
 
Using Tapo for some appliances (P100 or P110) and they seem reasonable and stable except firmware update causes them to lose power. I have a couple of Meross ones too but had random issues with one of them randomly turning off / losing wifi etc.. Have started to install Aurora smart sockets (faceplate ones) to most of my sockets but you need to know that these have a default socket off mode if theres any power loss (cannot be changed). I also have one or two Lightware RF sockets and they seem pretty good (just very expensive for what they are).

Guess it really depends on your use case and what appliance is running on the socket. For me the aurora ones a a good all rounder but I just cannot use them on fridge/freezer or any devices i want up 24/7. Although I could script something in home assistant to monitor state and usage and switch on if its switched off / alert me.

I'm toying with do i really need individual appliance usage stats or will the entire cicuit/room be sufficient or do I really even need to know this info if its not going to help me change anything
 
Interesting, just looked at the odd socket adaptor which was not working, it had been switched off, likely me, but I see it does have some features, like runtime which I had not noticed. In the main, controlled by google home, either with the phone or voice commands, so don't see extra features.

The older I get, the more I need the aids, but a house where the street lights don't show the route to the front door, is something new, and PIR's are useless, sitting in the car and turning on lights before I even get out of the car is the way to go.
 
I am using LocalBytes wifi smart plugs. They ship with a choice of firmware and do energy monitoring but you have to calibrate them yourself - not exactly straightforward. They work with Home Assistant and probably other platforms as well.
 
Interesting, just looked at the odd socket adaptor which was not working, it had been switched off, likely me, but I see it does have some features, like runtime which I had not noticed. In the main, controlled by google home, either with the phone or voice commands, so don't see extra features.

The older I get, the more I need the aids, but a house where the street lights don't show the route to the front door, is something new, and PIR's are useless, sitting in the car and turning on lights before I even get out of the car is the way to go.
Why do you consider Pir useless ?
 
@foxhole I had PIR lamps when I moved in, with I think 300 watt halogen bulbs, when I parked the car at bottom, 1752595725371.jpeg I was too far away for the PIR to detect me, but it would see the car front, (bit with hot radiator) so they would switch on, but unless fast, could switch off again as I walked up the drive. They were already too sensitive, being triggered by wind and trees, and also as I walked past the lamps, and up steps at the side of the house, unless fast they could turn off before I had triggered lamp at the front of the house, and again plunge me into darkness. When the leak on the veranda was cured, the lights had to come down, so replaced with carriage lights with smart bulbs. I can turn on while still in the car, and off once in the house, so far safer, and they do not assist intruders who should not be at the bottom of the house anyway. At the top of the house, still have a PIR carriage lamp, using a Tapo smart switch, which since it has batteries does not need a neutral or power through the lamp, so can set times when it works, I have now over the requirement for outside lights, eight in all, two hardly ever turned on, light way to front door which no one uses. The pedestal lamp on the edge of the pond is really all the visitor needs, and I turn it to green on Halloween to show we welcome trick and treat. The one at the corner of the house by the door everyone uses is an integral lamp, so powered with a P100 Tapo socket adaptor. And the bulkhead light side of the house under the eves is also normally powered with an adaptor, but at the moment relocated to work wife's bedroom fan. This again good reason for adaptors rather than smart sockets, as can move them around.

However, it seems not all smart bulbs, adaptors, switches, etc, are the same, the one odd bulb West side of the house, slowly dims before switching off, nice to have a warning it is about to turn off, (Wiz bulb) but the one on the pedestal at the pond, has dusk and dawn features, so in winter it turns on at 6 am, and off at dawn for the milkman. And this is why I started the thread, there are so many features not advertised, it seems some are part of hub, some are part of device, and some depend on the app used.

If I look for example on the Screwfix website, and look at smart devices, the information on what they do is somewhat lacking. Be it a socket adaptor, bulb, light switch, or TRV, it tells one very little. So just with Tapo (TP-Link) we have P100, P110, and P110M, there is £3 difference between the P110 and P110M and the M will it seems pair with more control devices, but since I use Google Home, not interested in the others, once we move to other makes, I have Energenie, and Drayton Wiser, we see different ways to do the same thing, the Energenie also do three versions, one switches, one monitors, and one monitors and switches, and I like the monitor only as can't be switched off in error. But I have a hub for each make, so in some ways we want all smart devices to be same make, as then only one hub.

The Drayton Wiser socket was got as it also relays the signal to the TRV head, as a socket adaptor it does less to the Tapo P110, and costs a lot more. It claims to be Zigbee, but does not link with my other Zigbee devices or hub. I used Energenie sockets, and had one fail, so decided the adaptors were better, as far easier to replace to a hard-wired socket.

As to TRV heads, the Wiser is a special in wife's room, as it will fire up the boiler, the Energenie should have done, but failed, the eQ-3 were very cheap at £15 in 2019, but not that cheap now, so when the Energenie one smashed by carpet fitters, replaced with Kasa (also TP-Link) had to buy new hub and found it did not with with Tapo hub, (also TP-Link) but they do now since a firmware update, but double as door bells, so both still used. Nice to be able to check time and date door bell pressed.

Lucky all my devices will work with Google Home, so I can work all with one app, or voice commands, but with reduced functions, it is handy be it plugged in or from lighting circuit, hey google turn off living room lights turns off them all. The problem can be turning items on, so many today will not switch on until a button is pressed, be it my battery charger or my tumble dryer, I can't set them to run as soon as a socket turns on, have to press a button on the device.

My move into smart devices was to control an extruder alarm, that alerted us when mother excaped, not allowed to lock the door, human rights and all that, but when she went on walk about, we could try to persuade her to come home. So alarm upstairs to wake us in the night, but so easy to forget to set it, or turn it off before carers arrived, tried timers and remote control sockets, but the smart socket allowed us to combine both. And new owners did not want them, so all moved here, but Energenie were expensive, and not the best, with some in their range, so moved to other makes. So now 5 hubs, OK one is used as a doorbell, and one is the central heating control, so three for smart devices, but would be better with one. Hence, the thread, so people can find out what does what before they buy.
 
We had an old shed, which we still needed until a new one put up, but was going to go, and an apple tree on the other side of the house, so to fit PIR's
1752692733655.png
clearly could be done, but would need to be a battery type as shown, so still need smart bulbs or relay of some sort, so the PIR costs around £15 extra to working the lights without, so why bother? What would a PIR do to improve the system?
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top