Smelly Drains

I don't think it'll be the condensate sump. Get that overflow cleaned up and see if that sorts it.
 
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Not the condensate sump but the lack of a seal on the drain. However I agree your suggestion is more plausible! Hopefully the op will be back with an update soon
 
Aim to get the overflow pipe off this week and clean it out - strangely the smell seems to have been a lot better today - which is odd!!

Cheers
 
So I cleaned out the over flow pipe as suggested - as I said the smell seemed to had eased off before then and the past week or so there's been no smell atall - till today!

Doing my best sniffing around it seems that both the washing machine and dishwasher units are both have a bit of a drain smell - I'm starting to wonder if it's possibly the main drain pipe what both of these feed into is causing the smell - which if so I suspect would be the flat maintenance company to look into as I don't think there will be much more I can do?

Thanks for all the help so far!
 
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As mentioned, overflows are notorious for collecting smelly waste.

One of your pics shows a drain hose connected to a spigot on a trap - whether that hose is from a W/M or a D/W, best practice is that the spigot should be pointing up, and that the connection be secured with a jubilee clip.
The other spigot boss (on the trap fitting) should be capped off.

After leaving the appliance footprint, drain hoses should immediately rise & be secured to just below the work top - they must not be allowed to sag as they run behind any other appliances or units.
When they reach the sink unit the hose drops down to be secured to the spigot.

Any sagging or running low will almost inevitably create the possibility of waste water &
debris accumulating and perhaps smelling.

If any of your traps or appliances require long waste pipe runs then its sometimes advisable to install an AAV (aka Durgo valve) in the run.
 
As mentioned, overflows are notorious for collecting smelly waste.

One of your pics shows a drain hose connected to a spigot on a trap - whether that hose is from a W/M or a D/W, best practice is that the spigot should be pointing up, and that the connection be secured with a jubilee clip.
The other spigot boss (on the trap fitting) should be capped off.

After leaving the appliance footprint, drain hoses should immediately rise & be secured to just below the work top - they must not be allowed to sag as they run behind any other appliances or units.
When they reach the sink unit the hose drops down to be secured to the spigot.

Any sagging or running low will almost inevitably create the possibility of waste water &
debris accumulating and perhaps smelling.

If any of your traps or appliances require long waste pipe runs then its sometimes advisable to install an AAV (aka Durgo valve) in the run.

Pretty sure the dishwasher one was quite long and there's some "spare" hose sat under the units which sounds like it shouldn't be - if I was to cut the hose shorter will it still be watertight with a clip rather than the current rubber connection.

As for the washing machine - again I'm sure there could be some slack on it - issue here is that the drains only accessible when the machines pulled out so has to be long enough to put in to the pipe when it's pulled out to then be pushed back - any suggestions with this?
 
Dont cut anything shorter.
For the time being, simply pull in a little slack from under the unit, & arrange the spare hose high in the sink unit below the work top.
But leave enough slack behind the appliance to enable you to easily pull the appliance out - you dont need a lot of slack.
Hard to describe but you will get the idea with a couple of tries of sliding the appliance out. (slide on a square of hardboard or cardboard)

The W/M typically comes with a short hose for connecting to drainage close by ie. a trap or an upstand.
But easily long enough for pulling out the machine.
If you have an extra long drain hose then it can be changed out for a shorter one.
If in doubt, you would have to measure the hose.
 

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