Soil pipe trauma (non-medical term!)

[simon whittaker]

I am trying to connect a new downstairs toilet into the vertical downpipe. I have exposed the downpipe, and am about to dig into the concrete flooring to get enough length to cut out a section and replace it with the appropriate connection. It seems that they have their own seal and simply slide in place.

Am I over simplifying this? Anybody got any experience in this area.

Also, in about the same area, the downpupe changes from grey to brown - anybody know what the relevance of this is? I was just going to a grey adaper and use that?

 

[simon whittaker]

No pun intended with the 'downPUPE' spelling mistake!

 

[masona]

You can use this

to correct your spelling.

Also, in about the same area, the downpupe changes from grey to brown - anybody know what the relevance of this is? I was just going to a grey adaper and use that?

The grey pipe is for outside and brown/orange is for underground. Mainly for identification purpose as blue pipe is water and yellow for gas pipe etc.....

 

[david and julie]

You will need a slip coupling to join the pipes a normal one won't do.

 

[simon whittaker]

Thanks for advice - whats a slip coupling. I have found a short length coupling with a seal both ends - is this one?

That was what I was going to use anyway?!?!

cheers

 

[david and julie]

Inside a coupling there is an inner flange to the centre, this is to make sure both pipes go in the fitting the right amount. A slip fitting does not have this flange so you can slide the coupling to one side.

Imagine a straight lenth of pipe and you want to insert an adapter 18" long, To get the adapter in you cut 18" out of the pipe. you then slide the female end over one of the pipes. This leaves 2 male ends to join together. However you will find that they are apart by the distance you have lost in the female pipe. You will now need 2 slip connectors and a short length of pipe to make good.

Slide a connector onto each end then cut a small section of pipe to fill the gap, then slip a connector over each joint. Equispacing each fitting.

The same principle applies if you ever want to join copper pipes and can't move them too

 

[david and julie]

Simon..... I forgot to mention that marley also do a coupling about a foot long MxF for this purpose to. You will have to weigh up which way is best for you.

 

[masona]

You might find it easier to use Fernco Flexible Couplings available from Travis Perkins builder merchants or see this.

 

[david and julie]

Masona.....must admit that's new to me, have you tried it out, any idea of the cost? I thought Simon had done the hard bit by exposing the sewer pipe.

Must be worth trying if it saves breaking out concrete though!

 

[masona]

have you tried it out, any idea of the cost ?

Done quite a few now ! They have been out for many years ! The cost is properly about the same or slightly dearer.

The beauty of this, you can fit them to cast iron, clay, plastic and so on. They a made of heavy duty high temperature rating rubber with jubilee clips on each end. They also come available in T-piece, reducer etc...

For some reason they don't seem to get the message across as 95% of people do not know about this product. You properly have walked past the products and not know what it for !!!

 

[david and julie]

Masona.......my apologies I did not read all the link only the front page I therefore thought you meant the item for repairing broken pipes, hence my referal to cost.

Yes I have used the rubber type. I thought they were mainly for joining different or odd sized pipe. I must admit I have not used them for this application because the long slip type joint is so simple.

The good thing is Simon is aware of the options now so it should help him.

Cheers David.

 

[simon whittaker]

Thanks guys.

Just as an update - I have installed the pipe using the flex-couplings. I tried to use the standard slip-couplings but had severe trouble getting them to 'slip'.

Anyway - it all looks fine now. I am just paranoid that there is a leak potential. Is it normal to test the system somehow or just use it and keep an eye out for damp and funny smells?

I have seen that you can buy pressure testers - it is really nessesary as I am not sure how all the various outlets would be blocked off.

cheers for all the usefull info

 

[masona]

I have seen that you can buy pressure testers - it is really nessesary as I am not sure how all the various outlets would be blocked off.

Normally pressure testing is done on new drain on building site or if you feel you have a cracked drain pipe etc, so I wouldn't brother if you just replaced a small section.

Did you not test for leak before back filling ?