-
Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.
Soldered joints
- Thread starter PaulAH
- Start date
OK guys, I promised to report on lead/tin multicore applied on top of crap lead-free stuff.
It went on just fine using Ugh's method. Built up a solid collar of leaded solder around the offending joint that would have stopped the Grand Coolee Dam. But IT STILL LEAKS! Obviously I hadn't got right to the back of the joint where there's a pinhole.
Ah well, out with the hacksaw and on with the compression joint.
It went on just fine using Ugh's method. Built up a solid collar of leaded solder around the offending joint that would have stopped the Grand Coolee Dam. But IT STILL LEAKS! Obviously I hadn't got right to the back of the joint where there's a pinhole.
Ah well, out with the hacksaw and on with the compression joint.
Now that IS clever. The post above contained a word that rhymes with strap and it's turned into "rubbish" all by itself.
Of course I know how offended you all would have been by a tribute to the gentleman who invented the WC.
Arise, Sir Thomas, your job is done.
Of course I know how offended you all would have been by a tribute to the gentleman who invented the WC.
Arise, Sir Thomas, your job is done.
)
In case anyone's interested electronic solder is the same alloy that's used for soldering pipes. Lead-tin, 60:40 (called a "eutectic" alloy". Lead-free is almost all tin. It "Tins" better than leaded but the melting point is quite a bit higher. They all mix together just fine. I used kilo's of electronic solder for plumbing when I was an electronic engineer doing plumbing, cos I "had a supply". Never any trouble, and sometimes still dead handy.
Only comments I'd make re the original problem is that nasty horrible Everflux is useful for places like that, it really does seek out the grot and deal with it. Also I'd use a metal shield behind the pipe (the Rothenberger one) cos it reflects heat nicely. When really desperate and I have a poorly made fitting, I keep supplying the solder all the time until the joint cools such that it stops melting. Then you know the solder hasn't just run out of the joint.
Only comments I'd make re the original problem is that nasty horrible Everflux is useful for places like that, it really does seek out the grot and deal with it. Also I'd use a metal shield behind the pipe (the Rothenberger one) cos it reflects heat nicely. When really desperate and I have a poorly made fitting, I keep supplying the solder all the time until the joint cools such that it stops melting. Then you know the solder hasn't just run out of the joint.
Ugh - attached is a cheque for £2m.
syntax error
syntax error
syntax error
I've doubled it because, inspired by you, I had one more last desperate shot at soldering with multicore AND IT WORKED! No leak. Well, not so far...
Thanks again
Paul
syntax error
syntax error
syntax error
I've doubled it because, inspired by you, I had one more last desperate shot at soldering with multicore AND IT WORKED! No leak. Well, not so far...
Thanks again
Paul
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
