Soldering copper pipe & Pipe Freezing

[bluebellstu]

Hi All,

I've a couple of questions - I hope someone might be able to help me with.

(we a moving radiators that are on 10mm copper.)

Firstly - If you want to solder 10mm copper pipe and your thinking of freezing it instead of draining the system - how far away would you need to freeze from where you are soldering?

- I've read its 18" - but that does'nt seem right to me sure copper will conduct more than that.
I know compression is recommended, but I've cut a hole in a plasterboard wall to get to the pipe and if I did it in soldered copper I would feel much safer when I board it back in.

Secondly - In the conservatory we've got one of those 6ft tall thin designer type radiators that I want to pipe up. Because of where the pipes are inturnally - it would make sense to actually put the TRV & Return Valve at the top of the radiator instead of the bottom like normal.
If I fitted a TRV4 one side and a Pegler Rad valve with a drainpoint - at the top of the Rad, could I use the drain point to bleed the radiator when filling it up for the first time?

Cheers

 

[Deleted member 105431]

you're a braver man than me to solder onto a live frozen pipe! Good luck.


p.s why not bung it?

 

[notevenadiyer]

Agree wouldnt freeze.i would rather drain down than solder. Would also not have a problem with compression joint. Just check it properly before sealing hole.

 

[seco services]

wrap a wet rag round the pipe before the freeze head.
18" will be ok.

 

[blondini]

Secondly - In the conservatory we've got one of those 6ft tall thin designer type radiators that I want to pipe up. Because of where the pipes are inturnally - it would make sense to actually put the TRV & Return Valve at the top of the radiator instead of the bottom like normal.
If I fitted a TRV4 one side and a Pegler Rad valve with a drainpoint - at the top of the Rad, could I use the drain point to bleed the radiator when filling it up for the first time?

The rad just wouldn't work properly. Hot water rises, it wouldn't circulate effectively in the bottom the bottom part of the rad which would stay cold.

 

[bluebellstu]

you're a braver man than me to solder onto a live frozen pipe! Good luck.


p.s why not bung it?

I dont understand what 'Bunging' or how to do it properly - please explain.

 

[bluebellstu]

The rad just wouldn't work properly. Hot water rises, it wouldn't circulate effectively in the bottom the bottom part of the rad which would stay cold.

Thanks for the reply.
So my only option is to pipe down to the bottom as normal?

 

[seco services]

bunging the system is where you block the vent pipe and feed pipe in the loft and it creates a vacuum and you can work on the pipework without draining.
or freeze the pipe as you said.

 

[namsag]

Yep you have to pipe it to bottom of rad otherwise only about the top quarter of it will heat.

 

[Terrywookfit]

you're a braver man than me to solder onto a live frozen pipe! Good luck.


p.s why not bung it?

We used to wipe joints on 3/4" lead water mains with the bagging only 12" away.
I never had one give problems.

 

[bluebellstu]

Thanks for all the replies guys - I appreciate the sound advice.

I don't think I can bung the system as I have a Suprima in the kitchen feeding a Boilermate II upstairs - I've nothing in the loft, so I would not know where the vent and feed pipes are (or which ones) they would be.