Paul - from your Sun pm post I'd agree with WYL to leave it for a week to settle but during this period ensure that you've got gaps all round.
Your problem is to create gaps where the stuff is touching frames, etc. The fix here is to either use something like a padsaw to manually remove material to create the gap, or to use a slot drill (a type of twist drill with cutting teeth up it's shank) - you drill through the board next to the frame and then by the application of sideways pressure you can cut the gap). If you lay any floors in future you can avoid this problem by cutting away a section of frame so the flooring will slot into it whilst ensuring the cut-out is deep enough to leave an expansion gap. You can do this with a hand saw, resting on an off-cut section of your flooring to get the right height, then chisel out.
If, after the floor has settled down, the floor continues to creak and sink in a couple of places, and obviously whipping the glued floor up isn't an option 'cos of the damage you'll do, then there is a fix. Accurately identify the sinking area, bore a small hole through the floorboard and inject a small quantity of builders foam below the board, then immediately plug the hole. The foam will expand SIDEWAYS between the underside of the flooring and the sub-floor taking-up any voids; let the foam set before walking on this section of floor.
OK ... the hole and the plug. Make the hole with a screwdigger (or a counterbore) to match the size of the nozzle of the foam can. The plug is made from an offcut of your floorboard using a plug cutter (this is matched to the counterbore). This plug is inserted in the hole with it's grain in the same direction as the floorboard; pare-off or sand level. I challenge you to find the small plug once the floor's been oiled. You can get a plug cutter/screw digger set from:
www.itslondon.co.uk
or
www.screwfix.com
Just an observation ... lots of folks are precious about their new floors, worried about slight colour/grain variations between adjoining boards (well it is a natural material after all), a
perfect surface finish, etc. My own view is that a beautiful wooden floor gains character by being walked on, having the odd slight creak, being 'scuffed, not looking 'perfect' (if we wanted something that looked like this plakka laminate would be everywhere).
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