Solid wood flooring (again)

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I realise that this subject has been covered a number of times (having spent an hour going back through the archives!) but can someone please 'sanity check' my plan of action in laying a floor?

Situation:
Solid oak T&G 120mm boards being layed over (flat & level) flooring grade chipboard in the upstairs bedroom of a fairly modern house. Room size is approx 3.5m x 3m.

Plan:
- Unwrap packs tonight so they can acclimatise before fitting them this weekend
- Use a thin breathable underlay / noiseproofing of some sort (recommendations? - http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101883&ts=13827&id=46572 ? )
- Spend some time marking out a straight edge to start from, leaving 15mm expansion on all edges.
- 'Secret nail' the boards using hired floor nailer approx every 200-300mm ( http://www.hss.com/g/52510/Floor_Nailer_Manual.html )
- Glue short ends of boards but no need to glue long edges (?? - really not sure about this bit!).
- Fill expansion gap with cork strip (alternatively rip off the skirting board at beginning and lay T&G under but would prefer not to have to do the replastering / redecorating!)

I'm pretty handy at DIY so not particularly worried about the level of my skills but don't want to make a stupid mistake due to poor technique / knowledge!

Any advice gratefully received.

JenkinsDH

ps. An alternative to hiring the flooring nailer may be to buy a nailgun (something like.. http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101300&ts=19007&id=22211 ). Would this kind of tool be a good alternative to do this job?
 
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If you're using underlayment on level chipboard there's no need at all to nail the boards.
Install the boards floating, glue the T&G's, that's all. See here
 
You shouldn't nail into chip board. Tends to create large hole on underside which leaves the nails working loose in no time at all. You should replace with plywood or go direct to joists depending on spacing etc. Also dont bother using cork around edge. leave expansion open and bead over the top. You could install 6mm ply and full bond floor to plywood? Also the nail gun you want to buy is not fit for the job but used for beading. So dont waste your money. Think your easiest method is floating as wood you like suggested.
 
Ok then - it sounds like I need to change my plans!

There does seem to be a few different theories on the web re. floating a solid wooden floor however (as opposed to the various types of engineered floors). Various sites suggest this is a bad thing to do and that a real wood floor should only be nailed (not possible due to the chipboard base) or glued directly to the sub-floor. Anyone care to comment on this discrepancy?

Assuming that floating is the way to go (and to summarise WYL's link) my plan will be...
decide whether to rip the skirting boards off or use beading
lay 3mm underlay
insert 15mm spacer blocks around wall to maintain expansion gap
install planks, glueing all T&G's
make good skirting/beading.

One question though... During the glueing should the boards be clamped together to ensure tight fits or could this cause problems more problems than it solves due to the boards 'cupping' at the joints (particularly if flooring clamps are overtensioned)?

Sorry for the continuing questions!

JenkinsDH

ps. one more question - am I right in assuming that any standard good quality PVA is suitable? Something like the EvoStik interior grade wood adhesive?
 
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pps. The manufacturer is Forester. Their instructions suggest two installation methods - either non-floating glue down or secret nailing.
It's worth mentioning however that the instructions also assume that any wooden sub floor is softwood planks not chipboard.

JenkinsDH
 
Um !!! well to tell the truth i dont fully agree with floating a solid wood floor by " pva " the joints. I only float solids if have locking system on tongue + groove and then i will only use elastion underlay But im also saying that this is not wrong!! You can float floors as wood you like suggests but be careful on what the manufacturer says is o.k for there product. This is the same for glue and nail systems to. If i was doing your floor myself i would install 4-6mm ply and glue floor to subfloor. This gives you solid base with minimum echo! You will also need clamps for glue method, and dont use water based adhesive. O and another thing. ! leave for 3 weeks minimum to aclimatize unless you have wood moister meter to take reading from you new floor to compare to subfloor.
 
Different countries of origin, different good, practical and proven methods of installing solid wooden flooring ;) (We're Dutch from origin and 'float' almost every solid wood floor, expect on underfloor heating and design parquet).
 

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