Some painting questions

[DrEvil]

Hi, following on from some good prep help I've got here already, I thought I would tap the knowledge bank for some advice on the painting itself - paintbrushes, rollers and paints!

1. When cutting in, what sized paint brush do you normally use?

2. In terms of rollers, I've normally used a smooth or medium ' whatever' roller from B&Q without really thinking about it, but the more I've done, the more I appreciate that when I've randomly picked up a more expensive roller, the finish is nicer.

- So what do you recommend in terms of a standard roller for wall emulsion?
- Would you recommend different rollers for different paints (flat matt or vinyl matt)?
- Also when you get to to around the tops of doors, do you switch to a smaller roller or just cut in a bit more to help with the coverage?

3. And possibly where I am most confused is the missus is wanting Farrow & Ball on the walls. Theres some positive sentiment towards them around this forum, but generally that (price aside)
- they can be thin and need an extra coat/you get poor coverage
- they knock/scuff easy
- are hard to patch up
- but they do give a good flat finish and you get a good range of colours with good 'depth' due to their more natural pigments.

I don't really want to turn into a love or hate farrow & ball posting, but I'm looking for reasonable alternatives.

I've seen suggestions that the Dulux Heritage flat matt finish is very good and with their colour matching is an alternate option to get that flat finish. Does the Dulux stuff suffer less from the knocking/scuffing/hard to patch up? Do you get better coverage from them.

Also there seems to be a Dulux Trade Flat Matt - does anyone here know how does that compare to the Heritage range? And also would it need thinning at all?

Further, does anyone have any other recommendations for what I'm after?

 

[dcdec]

I use a three inch synthetic brush for cutting in and a 9" wooster pro dooz for rolling. I prefer short pile rollers but medium are ok as long as you spread the paint well but don't over stretch it (technique i guess). I use the same sleeve regardless of paint unless i was rolling an oil eggshell for which i'd use a well worn sleeve.
I use a brush above doors but again technique comes into it.

Farrow and Ball do make good paint. It is over priced but their pigment is very good. The modern emulsion has a higher vinyl content and is therefore easier to use but will not be as flat as the estate emulsion, good surface prep is essential. A lot of paints (including Dulux matt) are hard to patch up unfortunately, its not a F&B thing.
Dulux heritage range is really good and a trade outlet would be able to do a selected colour in whatever finish you wanted. Any matt paint from any manufacturer will scuff and mark more easily, the alternatives are eggshell or diamond matt, these wont give a dead flat finish though

 

[DrEvil]

Thank for the reply. Seen those Wooster's recommended by others too.

Was on the trade1st site did make me wonder though, it's all very well getting a better roller sleeve, but what about the rest of my kit which may need upgrading to match (currently a Wilko roller frame and tray).

Appreciate the best equipment won't make up for bad technique, but may as well improve the odds before I practice a bit!

Anyhow, trade1st seem to have Some Hamiltons, a Tclass and a more expensive Wooster sherlock - all cage style. Some have an angle, some don't - any opinions out there on these? Else only a few bob in it, so may as well get the pricier one.

Also have a couple of other q's. Watched some youtube vids and seem some articles - does everyone seem to use a short extension pole for walls? Seems like a good idea to stop the bending and streching I do, does it also help with application of pressure and getting a consistent glide?

Another thing I've came across is some people dipping straight into the bucket and bucket screen instead of using a tray - is that common?

 

[misterhelpful]

You're right - the Wooster sleeves do need a Wooster frame.
I generally use a 9"x1¾" good quality frame with a soft/gel grip or wooden handle. I've tried just about every brand and find they pretty much do the same job, regardless of shape. The plastic handled ones are ok for a one-off DIY job, but give blisters if used a lot.
When it comes to sleeves, Purdy are good and I also don't mind the T-Class. I've started to get used to the microfibre sleeves too now after first finding them a bit short.
The short extension poles are very handy, do give you even pressure and save your joints. I'll be using one a bit more often in future. (Currently awaiting shoulder surgery through wear and tear of stretching!)
I always use a scuttle rather than a tray, as do most decorators, because they are easier and hold more paint, meaning you don't need to top them up so often.
(I don't dunk the whole roller in though, like some do )

 

[DrEvil]

Thanks for that, think I'm now sorted on the the equipment questions , now onto technique.

This is going to be subjective and ultimately different things work for different people. But would appreciate any advice/comment/opinions on:

Cutting in:

Seen some suggestions to do it in between first and second coat and some before first cost, opinions? Also, should the cut in area still be quite wet?

Roller technique:

I'm not even going to share my old technique as I know I haven't been using wet enough rollers, I've been using too much pressure, edge not being wet enough etc But..

Seen some guides to break up the wall into smaller squares and the paint in rotating M patterns before moving to next box, at the end of a vertical section go up and down in sweeping strokes. I kind of think it will be hard to keep it wet enough. Don't much like this way.

Another is a a straightforward full lengths from bottom to top, overlapping 1/3 roller.

Seen versions of this which does more full height rectangular blocks - vertical strokes, not laying off for a number of strokes with slight sweep left/right to keep you moving, then going back on the rectangular block you've just done, with final light vertical sweeps. Overlap blocks by 1/3 roller etc

So what works for people here?

 

[misterhelpful]

I'm a full length top to bottom person myself, applying in 5-6' wide bands before laying off and carrying on. I cut in as I go along with a 2-2½" brush. It needs a lot of practice and speed this way though so I wouldn't recommend it for a DIYer!
Cutting in is usually done first and should ideally still be wet when you start rolling the field. However, the reason I cut in as I go along is because some paints will be on the verge of drying when you start rolling and can peel off (ever so slightly annoying!)

All of your described methods are generally accepted but it will be interesting to hear other opinions.

 

[dcdec]

I do it the same way as mrhelpful except i go bottom to top, its a really good technique he's described and the gentle laying off minimises any orange peel effect to virtually nothing (if done right), the only other thing i do different is i cut it all in twice first. My wooster frame squeeks like hell and its really annoying and i've heard its common but i really like the pro dooz sleeve. I use a tray as i rarely roll more than a couple of litres at a time. Also when loading the sleeve i only roll it on the tray one way by pushing it into the paint away from me, dunno why but it prevents tram lines. Love working off a pole, way faster, good pressure and nice even coverage.

 

[jackassofalltrades]

Cutting in brushes 2-3inch
Rollers short to medium

I cut in one wall at a time with the paint as 100% paint, then roll the wall with a slightly watered down paint as i just find the finish is a lot smoother, the cut in again and roll!

If a jobs worth doing its worth doing twice, my personal painting rule of thumb lol. Don't think it'll be OK with one coat...Two is always going to be a more solid finish.

Cheers
Gaz