Some random question that are bugging me from training

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24 Apr 2010
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Of course I can ask my trainer but id like adifferent perspective please I bug hi enough as it is some of these ay see really picky but I like to get it spot on :D

1) When you plum and level your render beads do you do the 45 degree "spine angle" of the bead as well as each side

2) How much is the going rate to dot and dab and skim an entire small terrace house out (its in a few months and its a relative of mines whos away overseas )

3) When you skim or renderbead say a window do you follow a specific pattern ie top two first then sides or go in sequence as Im having different methods taught to me re as to how to get the to "meet" correctly

Cheers!!
 
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1) yes

2) hard to say, work out how long it will take you and charge a day rate

3) helps to stick your verticals on first then your head bead has something to sit on, this is for render beads, thincoats don't matter as you would fix them more firmly with clouts for example
 
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First of all , do what your instructor tells you and get passed!

As TM says, do the head last.

If your Cill is in right, you can cut both side beads the same length .Using a square or back of trowel the top of these beads should be just below the line of the top of the winodw frame when squared off it.

Then cut and sit the the head bead on, it will be supported by both sides if you cut it just long enough to sit on them. It will also be near enough square and line up with the head of the window and need very little or no adjusting.

Forget about a level* make sure they sight up with the window , are straight, square and have even margins.


* Within reason! If the window is not in level and plumb, you may have to split the difference but remember looking right is more important than being right.

If the head is near the ceiling, measure the margin from the ceiling as your curtain rail (or whatever) may show up your margins.

Stand back and have a last look , but don't mess about with them too much!
 

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