I recently had an old boiler replaced with a new combi and moved to a new room in the house during a kitchen refit. It was a last minute decision to move the boiler, while the kitchen work was already underway so the kitchen company used their own guy to do the work (and changed a premium rate for the rush). Having got an average boiler for my money I was quoted and extra £150 for a digital programmer... which I too exception to for the amount I'd already paid, but anyway, I digress.
Having finally paid off the kitchen (almost) I turned my attention upgrading the room thermostat. Currently fitted I have a basic analogue siemens thermostat RAA02 or similar. Three terminals L, Y1, Y2, connected to L-brown Y1-blue, Y2-yellow. I did some research and it was suggested that these should be live, neutral and switched live if standardly wired. I was aware however that the new room thermostat was using the old wiring from the old boiler so I ought to trace back to the boiler and check they are what I think. On investigation at the boiler end I have brown, blue and earth which disappear under the floor presumably to the old wiring. The boiler manual shows the connection for the room thermostat to have just two terminals, so I presume the third cable will be an actual earth not just the fitter borrowing some t&e to join to the old cable, does that sound right?
I want to replace my old analogue thermostat with a heatmiser PRT (just because I've used this at my old house and wouldn't need to relearn the controls!). This requires its own power so needs a live and neutral. One of the wiring diagrams on the manufacturers website states "volt free switching" and seems to show live and neutral to power the thermostat and connecting the inputs from hte boiler to terminals A1 and A2. Presumably this is a simple switch, as in heating on or heating off?
The electrics questions thus are (finally):
The unit is rated max load 3amp so can I run a spur and fcu to it, from the ring main? The thermostat manual also states max cable site 1.5mm would this be ok or better to stick to std 2.5mm?
If so... I've read that I have to make the fcu acessable, so I take it I couldn't attach it to the joist below the floor with an inspection panel?
It would just be unsightly to put one where the room stat is located so I would have to run the spur from a different socket to hide the fcu away.
Thanks for taking the time to read my post, I know it's long winded but I thought that would be more polite than just "how'd I do this". Ta
Having finally paid off the kitchen (almost) I turned my attention upgrading the room thermostat. Currently fitted I have a basic analogue siemens thermostat RAA02 or similar. Three terminals L, Y1, Y2, connected to L-brown Y1-blue, Y2-yellow. I did some research and it was suggested that these should be live, neutral and switched live if standardly wired. I was aware however that the new room thermostat was using the old wiring from the old boiler so I ought to trace back to the boiler and check they are what I think. On investigation at the boiler end I have brown, blue and earth which disappear under the floor presumably to the old wiring. The boiler manual shows the connection for the room thermostat to have just two terminals, so I presume the third cable will be an actual earth not just the fitter borrowing some t&e to join to the old cable, does that sound right?
I want to replace my old analogue thermostat with a heatmiser PRT (just because I've used this at my old house and wouldn't need to relearn the controls!). This requires its own power so needs a live and neutral. One of the wiring diagrams on the manufacturers website states "volt free switching" and seems to show live and neutral to power the thermostat and connecting the inputs from hte boiler to terminals A1 and A2. Presumably this is a simple switch, as in heating on or heating off?
The electrics questions thus are (finally):
The unit is rated max load 3amp so can I run a spur and fcu to it, from the ring main? The thermostat manual also states max cable site 1.5mm would this be ok or better to stick to std 2.5mm?
If so... I've read that I have to make the fcu acessable, so I take it I couldn't attach it to the joist below the floor with an inspection panel?
It would just be unsightly to put one where the room stat is located so I would have to run the spur from a different socket to hide the fcu away.
Thanks for taking the time to read my post, I know it's long winded but I thought that would be more polite than just "how'd I do this". Ta
