sourcing a ACL – appliance components ltd – Motortrol head

[Joe Dee]

Can anyone help me. In reference to my central heating motorized valve (2 port), the head part of the valve has broken, the cogged teeth worn maybe due to the motor not switching off. Anyway I wish to replace the head unit only, so I don’t have to replace the copper valve part as well. My issue is that the manufacturer of the head is below and my local Plumbworld don’t know the make. Can anyone suggest where I may get a replacement from. The head is connected to the valve by two threaded nuts, I have picture that I can email if anyone is willing to help. The cover on the head says;

ACL – appliance components ltd – Motortrol
Volts 240
Hz 50/60
Watts 6.5
Max 200 psi system pressure
Model A773B335-30L10
03-03-93

Any input would be really appreciated..
Regards,

Joe

 

[ChrisR]

Start here, but I expect you'll have to change the whole thing unless the head unclips from the valve
http://www.invensyscontrolseurope.com/InvensysControlsEurope/en

 

[pannierstan]

Hmmm I agree with Chris, if its the old white head colour I have had a real job with these before trying to repair as the older ones are not removable.

Stan

 

[Roger Goodier]

A diect replacement for this valve is a Drayton zone valve diverter22mm679B31648L0 it comes complete with the little plug and costs about £95 from HCS Anglesey tel 01248 422244 Good luck Roger

 

[Dicky2]

Hello, yet another question regarding the dreaded 'ACL mid position valve'. I am a competant novice, but use simple terms please........When we activate 'water only' on the CH controller, the motorised cog on the valve turns fully in one direction and the central heating rads come on too! I am concerned that it may not be the valve doing this, but it was fitted in 1991 - so it's had a good innings. (The new controller in 2005- so i assume that's OK?). I have removed the motorised cog on the valve and replaced it with a new one, but it too only turns in one direction, regardless of the setting on the controller (as did the old cog/motor)? Thus, I don't know whether to replace the valve - or the CH controller box (again)? There's a few resistors etc in the valve case - so I assume these could go wonky too??? If the worst is to happen, dare I assume that the whole 22mm pipe connections will bolt off and a new one bolt in its place without any major plumbing work? I can move the spindle inside the white valve case/box with my thumb, so I was hoping that the valve isn't seized??? Guidance and the best way forward anyone please? I will try HCS Anglesey - as suggested in an earlier message

 

[Roger Goodier]

Hi Dickie.these valve cog leavers only work one way ie they open the heating AND the hot water port when heating is called for .then the spring loaded system is elctronicly released on command from the thermostatsYou may be able to leave the actuator manual switch open by moving it to the left.Its very stiff and hard to over come the strong spring, and clicking it into the groove .THis will let u use your room stat to contol the heating .Its a while since I change mine so will rack my brains.I used to fit the valve in my job as a heating engineer,but I am now retired so that was in the 70/80's years I dont think it will be your contol box,but it could be the roomstat.your welcome to ring me 01407 741106 Roger

 

[Roger Goodier]

Hi Dickie .its me again ...Sorry didn't read your quetion properly"senior moment"& all that ...Yes check the roomststat hasn't shorted out and is permanantly calling for heat,Ie disconnect it.YES the replacement valve I suggested from Anglesy suppliers willswop easily ,but u have to man pulate the 22m connections a bit .Idid not find it a problem.hope this helps .Roger...ps make a sketch of the port positions on the old valve before u start .cos u may have doupts that u have fitted it right if u have problems..just label the outlet pipes with corispondung letter on the valve!

 

[JohnD]

IIRC ACL is a brand that was taken over by Drayton (part of Invensys). If you have a look at their website you will find their contact details, they are quite helpful and can probably send you the connections for your old and new valve (but the wire colours may well be the same anyway)

even if the old valve is not of their manufacture they may know how to swap it (they have lots of conversion tables for programmers, I know)

 

[Roger Goodier]

Hi Dicky2,what boiler have u got...maybe the tec guys at the boler manufacts may help u...the valve I had from anglesey suplliers was to go on a worcester combi..the plug on the valve all matched up with my control panel socket , you could drain down and test the valve dry ,IT could be that some debri is keeping the portway slightly open and allowing sepage to the radiator system or the rubber on the shut off arms has disintigrated giving the same symtons !! yes that would be my next move I'm sure ...elimination of any possibilities Roger

 

[Dicky2]

Thanks for the swift replies Gents. I have the in-laws coming to dog sit next week while we're away. I'll be in for an ear bending if we get a cold spell!? (Keep the bills low though!!!!)

I spoke with HCS and their techy guy is mailing me the electrical test sheet, to ensure it is the valve and not the controller. He didn't raise any box replacement theory. He just stressed that "they are different now..." an highlighted the benefits of the changes allowing future repairs/replacements to be completed more easily. Guess i'll have to wait another 19 years to find out if that's true - or will they change it agin in the name of progress??? What or who is going to do the test procedure - i'm not sure yet - but at leats it's a step in the right direction.

My system has no room stat. The rads were fitted with stats but i have removed most because of problems with poor circulation from my trustee old Potterton Flamingo (Circa 1991).

Roger, Thankyou for the offer of a phone call. You will see by the time I posted this message, that a call now would probably result in some harsh language. However, if I get time before work tomorrow- i'll certainly give you a bell.

I have removed the actuator cover and the motorised cog. I've then pushed the metal lever to water only and it stays put. The black plastic clip is broken, so i'm now thinking if it is spring loaded, it should return?? I think I read earlier about a dose of WD40 to free the mechanism inside the 22mm junction (3 way), which could therefore be seized if the spring loading is ineffective or broken off.

I'm nearing the point of just chucking in the £70 replacement fee and going for 'drain down'...unbolting and swapping the lot in the hope it works. Sods (or Murphys) law says however, that something will go amiss and there'll be no heating at all - so i'm tempted to do nothing until back from hols.

(PS I've just taken a break and viewed my e-bay in box, re: item number 230282352908 - which is a replacement actuator box. The vendor states 'yes they do clip on' He then states he sells the 22mm junction too if I need one - but it will need a drain down of course...which sounds to me like he means the box will swap with the old one? I have sent him another question of course)