Spark Plugs Removal

[pagal]

I have a 1997 Hond Accord and was trying to replace my spark plugs. For some reason one of lugs would just not grip/turn using my 5/8" driver. I even used my old psark plug removal tool etc and not luck, I cannot feel any resisance or grip. I am not sure if the nut flanges on the plugs have rusted or what the sscoop is. I managed to replace all the other 3 with my 5/8" tools.

Anyone have any ideas ?

 

[david and julie]

I don't want to sound drastic, but I have had to remove cylinder heads because of snapped plugs in the past. One thing you could try is a good quality, deep reach, hexagonal socket, rather than a plug socket, they are usually a tighter fit. Penetrating oil left overnight and a cold engine may also help. A smooth pull on a strong arm, held dead straight,is also safer than jerking.

If it is running OK leave well alone. Don't open a can of worms just for the sake of it. Believe me you are not being lazy if you do!

 

[pagal]

I checked with a strong flashlight and it looks like the plus hex portion looks rusted. I also tried to measure how deep my socket extender goes between plugs and for this one it is proud. Not sure if it is becasue the cylcinder is offset or what. Anyway not sure if I am only firing on 3, but not sure what the symptions would be firing on 3, I guess fule consumption.

Any thoughts ?

Thanks

 

[david and julie]

Using a long thin screwdriver scrape around the plug to check rubbish isn't stopping the socket going on properly.Then blow it away. If you can't see properly a ladies make up mirror and torch(flashlight) helps.

I would think the socket you are using is probably not a good fit or poor quality and rounding off. This is why I said use an hexagonal socket(as opposed to a 12 point) they don't slip. Gently tap the socket to make sure it is all the way home.

To check for misfiring. With the engine ticking over just remove and replace the leads one at a time and listen to the engine. It should slow or misfire on each lead. You will see what I mean when you try it. If every lead changes more or less the same you probably have no problems. If the leads are tight take them off and rest them in place first, this can save getting a shock.

Bear in mind when doing this sort of check that there are moving parts and that the electric fan could start at any time. So be careful.

Any problems or if you don't understand come back and let us know.

BTW I don't know what you mean by sscoop

 

[pagal]

My last resort was to take digital images down the plug hole and try to enhance and see if the plug was indeed rusted or whatever, The pictures do not show a distict hex which to me indicates that it has been rusted round. I tried to clean the hole by blowing air and some WD-40 but no luck. So it fires ok, supoosedly I spoke to the previous owner and he mentioned no issues, but had put a platinum plug 2 years ago, so maybe it can last me another few years before I need to worry again (touch wood).

Thanks for your advice.


ps scoop meaning situation

 

[david and julie]

Thanks for the decription ,I have been to the US (but not Canada) about a dozen times and have never heard it before.

I wouldn't be overly worried about the plug, just take it as it comes it will probably last for years.

Cheers

 

[AdamW]

I have heard this can be a design flaw with cars, where one or two plugs are in such a location that they are exposed to water and rust in. A friend with an Alfa 145 2.0 had this problem with one plug, in the end a mechanic had to take the head off. He heard it was quite common with his car.

 

[pagal]

My last attempt at the situation is as follows. I got a LED light and lowered it down the bore hole to the plug to take better pictures. I also used a wire to measure the depths. Here are the conclusions

1) Depths are the same between the plugs so nothing is stuck there
2) Hex nut not visible hence rusted Hex nut of Plug
3) Now the bad news, using a small wire I was able to rotate the rusted hex nut !, which only implies that the rust has severed it the from the main body, which means the plug cannot be removed as the metal from the threaded portion is attached to the hex nut portion. The only way is if the torque has reduced I may be able to hold the tip of the plug to remove the plug by rotating the tip oif the plug and hope the ceramic can take tht torque.

Photos are located at

http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/faziz_2000/album?.dir=/7ba0&.src=ph&.tok=phq9s9BBzcoQe7Co
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Moderator (inserted pictures into post)

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[david and julie]

The link isn't working.

 

[pagal]

http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/faziz_2000/my_photos

 

[shaggy]

David and julie:

Penetrating oil left overnight and a cold engine may also help.

Hasn't the Honda got an aluminium head? The plug will be removed easier from a warm head.

 

[david and julie]

An alloy head doesn't mean the plug threads are not steel inserts.

 

[shaggy]

You mean it's been repaired with an insert? I didn't know of any alloy heads that came from the factory with inserts?

 

[AdamW]

Is there an adaptation of the "screw remover" kits, where you drill a hole in the centre and screw in a left-handed bolt. Just thining that might allow removal without dismantling the head or getting rubbish into the cylinder.

Warm engine couldn't hurt (provided you don't burn yourself). The expansion and contraction may help break the stiction, but seeing as the head has snapped off the plug it is all academic now.

 

[shaggy]

I've removed Fiesta ones with a stud extractor Adam. They are tapered seat and always shear at the bottom of the taper so there is no clamping load left. You don't need to drill those because where they shear is the hollow section.