Still not getting hot radiators

Get one of these http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/231242784642 then put a radiator bleed vent in it (http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/230768633245) Most others need you to solder one on, which I'm not sure you mentioned you can do?

Many thanks! I will do that this weekend too. I have one of those automatic valves after the pump on the CH (first pic) and another on the HW (second pic). Do they both need replacing?

Wouldn't the high pressure side of the pump mean that air couldn't get dragged in?

 
Auto air vents on an open system are generally a bad idea. Keep in mind that there is no flow past the vents so the water rushing past can cause air to be dragged in. In a sealed system there is enough (almost equal) pressure everywhere in the system to stop it. In an open system that can't be guaranteed.

As long as the little cap on the auto air vents is sealing correctly you can just close them after bleeding but removing them eliminates any chance of error and over time/use the cap can stop sealing properly. Air in a system = corrosion = blockages!
 
The little cap is on the vent at the front (which i replaced recently) but has always been missing on the one at the back. Would that be allowing air into the system then?

I will replace those asap in that case - at the same time as I cut out the air separator. Thanks for your help.
 
I have just ordered the couplings I need to cut out the pipe so I can clean it and refit, or replace.

Last night I also tried to remove the pump to see if it is dirty and needs to be cleaned out. Unfortunately one of the isolation valves was knackered so i couldn't cut the flow. That means another drain down tonight :-(

I'm getting through a lot of inhibitor bottles these days.
 
Last night I drained down the system and cut out the air seperator.


I also took off the pump. Both parts were disgusting. Full of thick grainy gunk with lots of hard bits of magnetite, like large grains of sand. The pump was rusted and I think needs replacement, even though it is only 3-4 years old.


The pipes I could get to were the same. Drawing a screwdriver through the end of any pipe brings up a full head of sediment.


Part of the cause is that the auto air bleed valve was missing the top so was constantly drawing air into the pump. Also I found out that the previous owner last drained the system in 2007, and didnt add any inhibitor as she couldn't reach the F&E tank (it is blocked in by a loft bathroom!)

So, now my question is... what next...

My plan is:
- Clean the air separator thoroughly
- Replace the two auto bleed valves with manual ones that won't allow air to be drawn in (thanks St0rmer66!)
- Clean out the F&E tank (I may need to just create a new tank and move the pipework as I can't get to the existing F&E tank)
- Get a thorough professional power flush done to clean rest of the pipes and the blocked radiators
- Replace the pump

Any thoughts? Does this seem like the right order and approach?
 
Rather than a power flush I am planning to do a Powder Flush because the pipes are so dirty and, according to the powerflush association a powderflush works far better for really blocked up systems like mine.
 

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