Hi.
First post from a longtime lurker
Currently the house has a basic gravity fed DHW system with a old (15yr+) Halstead Buckingham 3 conventional boiler. The tank has no tank-stat and there are no valves.
When i first moved in, one of the first things i did was to replace the 24h heating controls with a Drayton LP722 7 day programmer, this was straightforward.
Given that winter is starting to draw in, and im doing what i can to minimize the potentially high heating costs. ive been thinking about the boiler controls again.
The biggest downfall of the system, is the fact the programmer and thermostat are separate entities and the lack of a boiler interlock.
The room thermostat (old hardwired item) is wired inline with the CH pump using twin+earth, When the room-stat gets to temperature it just cuts the power to the pump, and the boiler continues to run until it reaches its internal thermostat temp and cuts out.
After that it starts cycling every couple of minutes.. I realize this is a monumental waste of gas..
I assume that the heating controls do actually support stopping the boiler when no heat is required and i just need to replace/change the wiring of the thermostat to make it work.
Does anyone have any ideas how to do this?
I know converting to fully pumped, and adding a tank-stat would be a good option, but im planning to get a combi put in next summer anyway.
Ta
First post from a longtime lurker
Currently the house has a basic gravity fed DHW system with a old (15yr+) Halstead Buckingham 3 conventional boiler. The tank has no tank-stat and there are no valves.
When i first moved in, one of the first things i did was to replace the 24h heating controls with a Drayton LP722 7 day programmer, this was straightforward.
Given that winter is starting to draw in, and im doing what i can to minimize the potentially high heating costs. ive been thinking about the boiler controls again.
The biggest downfall of the system, is the fact the programmer and thermostat are separate entities and the lack of a boiler interlock.
The room thermostat (old hardwired item) is wired inline with the CH pump using twin+earth, When the room-stat gets to temperature it just cuts the power to the pump, and the boiler continues to run until it reaches its internal thermostat temp and cuts out.
After that it starts cycling every couple of minutes.. I realize this is a monumental waste of gas..
I assume that the heating controls do actually support stopping the boiler when no heat is required and i just need to replace/change the wiring of the thermostat to make it work.
Does anyone have any ideas how to do this?
I know converting to fully pumped, and adding a tank-stat would be a good option, but im planning to get a combi put in next summer anyway.
Ta