Stripping tiles...(Plaster coming off with it!)

Joined
4 Feb 2006
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
London
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all,

Im currently stripping tiles in the bathroom and unfortunately a lot of the plaster is coming off with it (I think the tiles have been on the wall for over 30 years!)

Where do I go from here before I can re-tile the wall?

Do I have to scrub off the loose bits (leaving on as much as possible of the original plaster) and replaster the wall myself over the existing plaster (this will be rough but it only needs to be solid base for the tiles to go on and not smooth for painting)

Any ideas much appreciated?

Thanks
Dan
 
Sponsored Links
After you get the tiles off, then if it were me, I'd probably go out to the hardware store and buy some 3/4 X 3/4 straight wood moldings. Now drop into your local sheet metal shop and buy a piece of heavier guage sheet metal about 14 inches long by about 6 inches wide.

Cut a 3/4 inch square notch out of each corner of that sheet metal.

Paint the bottom 12 inches of your bathroom wall with a concrete bonding agent.

Nail the wood moldings to your bathroom wall horizontally so that the upper one is about 12 inches above the lower one.

Spread polymer modified thin set on the wall using your sheet metal as a screed to build up the wall to about the depth of the bottom of the wooden strips with thin set.

After you build up each horizontal foot of wall with polymer modified thin set, move the lower wood molding higher and do another foot.

That way, you can re-establish the original surface of the wall.

I suggest installing the wood moldings horizontally so that the wood supports the thin set against "sagging" as it dries. If you were to put the wood strips up vertically, there might be a greater tendancy for the thin set to want to slump as it's drying for lack of anything holding it up against gravity.

But, if you mix your thin set fairly thick, then setting the wood moldings vertically shouldn't be a problem, either, and may make it a bit easier to trowel the thin set onto the surface of the wall.
 
If it were me I'd pull off the loose plaster and coat with PVA to seal the wall. Then trowel on some undercoat plaster until it was almost flush with the original surface. Then you'll have to leave it until it dries for a few days. Then tile as before.



joe
 
Depends on how much plaster has come off. If not that much and going to be re-tiled, then just over apply the tiling adhesive, no need to make good. otherwise as has been suggested make good with an undercoat plaster. Interested in NK's suggestion, not sure you'd get that one from anyone in the UK.
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Well we had always planned to have the ceiling re-plastered so had a plasterer come out to give us a quote.

He says that the plater is in a really bad state (i.e. some of it is bak to the breeze block!) So what im going to do is strip all the plaster back to the wall (I went out and bought a Bosch SDS chuck drill which does chiselling! :) )

Once that is done im going to treat the breeze block wall to seal it from moisture (anyone have any ideas what the best substance is to do that?)

Following which im going to plasterboard the walls by dib-dabbing it to the main wall. This will then make a very good base from which tile.

How does that plan sound to you guys?

Thanks
Dan
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top