structural opening for a door

[Ashworth1]

Hi,
I am having a cavity wall between my garage and living room. Just wanted an idea what the structural opening should be if a am having a door 762x1981. I found some info that said to do it 864x2051. This allows for 18mm ply line then the frame? seems too much to me.

I am not going have achitrave, was hoping just to have the liner and door stop so i would have it plastered around the frame? is it ok to have 3/4"x6" liner only?
Thank you

 

[noseall]

We would cut masonry opening 50mm (min) wider than needs be so that we could dab some boards up the exposed masonry and form a flat solid surface upon which to fix the liner or ply.

We would always mark off where the best fixing bricks are prior to dabbing any plasterboard.

Once the dab has set you now have a nice surface to either mechanically fix to or use an adhesive or both.

 

[Ashworth1]

Hi nose all, thanks for that. So just to clarify- from the opening you dob and ban the plaster board to the sides and top, then glue the liner to the plaster?

 

[noseall]

Hi nose all, thanks for that. So just to clarify- from the opening you dob and ban the plaster board to the sides and top, then glue the liner to the plaster?

Just the sides. The liner header is usually some distance from the lintel depending upon whatever brick/block course you manage to slot the lintels into. If it is practical to do so then dot and dab the head also.

 

[Newboy]

I doubt you'll manage to keep a fire door and door lining in place with building adhesive as the only fixing

 

[noseall]

I doubt you'll manage to keep a fire door and door lining in place with building adhesive as the only fixing

No, nor would I risk it. But being able to use a combination of both is a real boon.

Incidentally, I would like to see you remove a ply lining that has been fixed to plasterboard with CT1. bloody good gear.

 

[Newboy]

Agree - Stickslike/Gripfill ok,but CT1 should be called "sticks like sh*t to a blanket". The only time I've seen good building adhesives properly applied fail is when the substrate has parted - leaving part of the lining attached to the reveal.

I'd still be inclined to use a combination of mechanical fixings and adhesive in the OPs situation though.