Stud wall question / advice

[darrena]

Hi forum.

I'm converting half my double garage in to a reptile room. Building regs do not effect this build so I'm doing all the work with the exception of the electrics.
I have built the internal two walls which fall just of the full depth of the garage so that the up and over garage door can still be operated.
This wall was built out of 90mm x 40mm timber 50mm celotex and 12.5mm plasterboard each side.
I am now moving on to the external i.e. the back and left had side. This wall is brick and breeze and brick 60% of the way up and the top section is a single brick in thickness.
With the wall being double thickness at the bottom I am trying to work out the best way to build the stud wall as there is going to potentially a big gap to the external wall 60% up.
The outside left wall will also be having an external door fitted 1 meter from the rear corner of the garage which is yet to be cut out.

By the way the garage is not attached to the house.

My questions relate to how to build the stud wall with the variable wall thickness?
Can I use the same Celotex for an external as I did for the internal?
Should I build the stud wall before getting the door cut out?

Sorry for all the questions but some pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Darren

Untitled

• darrena
• 19 Apr 2014
• 1

Untitled

• darrena
• 19 Apr 2014
• 1

 

[pinenot]

As long as the battens used to frame out the ex walls are the same thickness, and you can get the insulation into the void (you say you have used 40 thick timber, whereas the Celotex is 50 doesn't that cause a crush??) the framing should run straight up the lower section of wall (block) and sitting off the brick upper wall section, the Celotex cut to a snug fit between the studs, will hold it in position. And yes the same insulation can be used.
Presumably the ceiling will also have to be insulated and plaster boarded, how are you doing this??? ...pinenot

 

[darrena]

Hi thank for the response

The current stud is using 90 x 40mm beams so they are 90 deep and have a 40mm air gap behind the insulation

I was going to plaster the ceiling and use 50mm celotex as well but put a ventilation fan top the exterior,

Would you cut the door out before the stud wall goes in or after?

 

[pinenot]

Sorry, are we talking door through the stud partition of thought the block/brick ex wall...pinenot

 

[darrena]

Well both I suppose

 

[pinenot]

So before the partition goes up, you'll really need access, either via a slap in the exterior wall or within the partition itself,. Personally I would build the partition on the deck with the door slap built in and leaving the bottom runner in place until the partitions in place, cutting it out in situ. To give better clearance, also slap out the door in the ex wall...pinenot

 

[darrena]

Hi

Sorry there some building slang in there which is causing the novice a little confusion

I already have a doorway in the exterior stud wall so access to the partitioned area is not a problem.

So if I understand your response correct then your saying build the remaining section of the stud wall on the exterior walls before knocking/ cutting the exterior wall out where the door will go.

I will build the door opening within the new stud wall section.

I know the door I'm buying http://www.screwfix.com/p/double-glazed-upvc-back-door-translucent-glass-lh-840-x-2085mm/71661 or some similar that's pre hung like this. How much extra room should I allow for the hard wood door frame

Thanks for your patience with me

 

[pinenot]

Measure the frame, allow 10 - 12mm over the width and 6 - 8mm at the top. As these doorsets have a built in threshold, clearance will be nil at the bottom...pinenot