Supply to loft.

[ban-all-sheds]

It's kind of you to suggest that, but...

OTOH - if I didn't make that mistake, maybe he did? Is Lancashire next to Lanarkshire in the list?


Where's that clutching-at-straws emoticon.....

 

[1john]

run a 16A 2.5mm radial, there is no need for the added expense of a ring final circuit. if you think you may want more power then run a 32A 4mm radial. dont waste time or money with ring final circuits where they are not required. they are easy for a DIY'er to install incorrectly and work when faulty.

 

[Jimbo1978]

I didnt mean to start a fight guys.

Update. All my existing cables run through the loft as I am an upstairs four in a block type house. Within my house I have two unused and unreachable sockets due to being covered by furniture and junk. I have been informed the best way would be to spur off these sockets and run the cables along the backs of the beams within the empty space behind the new stud walls thus keeping cooling to max. All I now have is a light circuit to install. I was going to run a new line for this as I also need to put a light on the new staircase and new hall that will feed this space. Would this need to be a ring or could i run a single line and then spur off to the next light from the back of the switch?

Thanks

Jim

 

[1john]

a lighting circuit doesnt need to be a ring

 

[ncoups]

[/quote]

...or use a switch capable of handling the full current. (might be simpler)[/quote]

Does this mean that you can install a lamp straight on a 32A ring main providing fitting can cope?

 

[Darkness]

Sorry to jump in, but I see folk are talking of 16a and 20a radials on 2.5mm.

Is there a reason why you would stick with 16a instead of 20a?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I am an upstairs four in a block type house.

Does that have any implications re Building Warrants?

 

[davelx]

Sorry to jump in, but I see folk are talking of 16a and 20a radials on 2.5mm.

Is there a reason why you would stick with 16a instead of 20a?

Yes - when the way the cable is installed and/or its length means it cannot carry 20A. There are circumstances where you would have to drop to 10A or possibly even 6A.

 

[skenk]

If you are converting the loft into a habitable space then you would need a building warrant, masses of insulation, a proper staircase etc. etc. If you are boarding it out and using it for storage (you can still add a light and socket) you won't need a building warrant.

You mention a new staircase and hallway - if this is the case it sounds like you need a building warrant, do you have one? If not, when you come to sell there will be problems, possibly major ones (the council can require that you rip the whole lot out). Normally the electrical spec would be on the building warrant plans but I have been on a job recently which has a warrant granted, huge steel opening up 2 rooms on the ground floor to make a big new kitchen and BC weren't bothered about the electrics

If you have a warrant and it mentions electrics you will need an installation certificate (to get a completion certificate for the warrant) which you will not be able to complete (judging by what you have said) and so you need to involve the electrician who will be completing the certificate and they can advise you what the best course of action will be. Are you in the Glasgow City Council area?