suspended floor ventalation

[stetomo]

First post this but I had to share this job with you as it was all done using previous advice give by this site, so keep up the good work gents you have all been life savers.

I recently bought a 1930's semi repossesion as a "little" project to move into. It has 2 extensions side and rear. In building the extensions they blocked off all the air bricks, hence no air flow under the wooden suspended floor.

As you can all imagine the joyst were in a bad state. But lots of reseach on DIY not and a lot of swearing i'm nearly there. Still not finished but will post further pictures when done.

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• stetomo
• 5 Jul 2013
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• stetomo
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• stetomo
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• stetomo
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Basically had to sister the existing joyst's. It was either that or concrete the whole lot, but the floor depth was too much. Then to solve the problem of no air flow. I cut 2 channels through the extention floor and dug out using a hired jack hammer (tried with the sledge hammer but gave up straight away). Then I installed 2 telescopic vents with 4 inch pipe staight through and under the existing wooden floor and filled in with concrete (with DPC). Fitted the airbricks ouside and filled in missing brick work.

As you can see from the last picture the whole of the outside floor level is too high. On level with DPC and needs diggin down 3 bricks depth. Thats a job for when we get some prpoer sun though

Any way folks. Thanks for a top site with great advice. Will be adding more albums and topics as i progress. whole house to do.[/net]

 

[dann09]

Well done for tackling such extensive repair work - there's no way that i could attempt your daywork.

There are a few things however:

1.You have a lead DPC and it appears to be working well - dont let anyone talk you into injections etc.

2. Get rid, seperate the raised garden from the house.

3. All bearing points under joist tails require a bit of DPC.

4. All bolt-on bearing tails must be capped and mayonnaise treated ( i can see one example).

5. Pic 2, the underside of the T&G is showing signs of decay.

6. Pic 3, the new bolt-on is sistered to a rotten joist - all rotten joists must be cut back and out.

7. Pic 4, copper pipework requires raising and clipping up.

8. Pic 4, joist no 2 from the right requires a sounder connection and more stable bearing - over time, traffic might create bounce and creaking.

9. Clear all wood debris from the oversite.

10. Spray treat all areas of significance.

11. For remedial air bricks typically use 9 x 6, or double 9 x 3, or even 320mm x 240mm.

12. Perhaps insert more air bricks at the front elevation.

13. Perhaps, take a few bricks out and examine your cavities.