Swap Danfoss Timer & Honeywell Thermostat with Nest v3

Joined
6 Aug 2021
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
6BCB8DF8-B959-49DC-AA3C-E81ED7858ECF.jpeg
0A6BA954-8440-4A88-AFBE-1527EFDE8356.jpeg
3F6ACCD2-3012-4685-91CE-F2371388198C.jpeg
A8B2886E-5F7B-405A-B023-B52AC45ACCB0.jpeg
6BCB8DF8-B959-49DC-AA3C-E81ED7858ECF.jpeg
0A6BA954-8440-4A88-AFBE-1527EFDE8356.jpeg
Hi all,

I’ve seen a few threads on here about fitting swapping out an existing timer and thermostat for a Nest, but none of the solutions quite fit my config.

My current setup is a Danfoss 103 timer to a Honeywell thermostat.

One thing I’m really nervous about is 240v going to the 12v connections in the Nest.

Would appreciate some help with wiring!

I’ve attached some pics
 
Sponsored Links
Nest doeant have 12v connecions, what are you struggling with ?
 
Hi there,

I was just looking at the wiring diagram and T1 & T2 says 12v
 

Attachments

  • ACD8D70E-899C-4C58-A8C1-679CEFE7A84E.jpeg
    ACD8D70E-899C-4C58-A8C1-679CEFE7A84E.jpeg
    146.8 KB · Views: 63
Sponsored Links
Hi there,

I was just looking at the wiring diagram and T1 & T2 says 12v
They are wiring terminals to power the Nest thermosta, so you dont need to use the USB plg, they wont do anything for the control of your heating system
 
Thanks for that.

What would the wiring setup be for both the heatlink and thermostat?

thanks again.
 
Some where the red, yellow, blue of the existing thermostat and the red, yellow, blue of existing timer must go into some junction box. As to if that is in the boiler or external I don't know.

The Nest Gen 3 heat link needs power to it to work it which needs to be 230 volt, but the three terminals for both heating and domestic hot water are volt free, so does not matter if it switches 230 volt or 24 volt. Then there is the OT (OpenTherm) terminals which are around 5 to 40 volt and can only be used with Opentherm enabled boilers, so it depends on the boiler being used, and last the T1 and T2 carry both DC to power the thermostat and data, if used the thermostat only uses wireless to connect to internet, if not used, then it sends info wireless.

I am not impressed with Nest Gen 3 in spite of having it fitted to this house, as it does not connect to TRV heads any more, it did until Google took over, the geofencing does work well, but to get the best out of it you need an OpenTherm boiler, and if moving from on/off to OpenTherm it will need rewiring, you may use the original cables between heat link and thermostat, but heat link to boiler basic starting from scratch, but it can be mounted very close to boiler so not really a problem.
 
Some where the red, yellow, blue of the existing thermostat and the red, yellow, blue of existing timer must go into some junction box. As to if that is in the boiler or external I don't know.

The Nest Gen 3 heat link needs power to it to work it which needs to be 230 volt, but the three terminals for both heating and domestic hot water are volt free, so does not matter if it switches 230 volt or 24 volt. Then there is the OT (OpenTherm) terminals which are around 5 to 40 volt and can only be used with Opentherm enabled boilers, so it depends on the boiler being used, and last the T1 and T2 carry both DC to power the thermostat and data, if used the thermostat only uses wireless to connect to internet, if not used, then it sends info wireless.

I am not impressed with Nest Gen 3 in spite of having it fitted to this house, as it does not connect to TRV heads any more, it did until Google took over, the geofencing does work well, but to get the best out of it you need an OpenTherm boiler, and if moving from on/off to OpenTherm it will need rewiring, you may use the original cables between heat link and thermostat, but heat link to boiler basic starting from scratch, but it can be mounted very close to boiler so not really a problem.

Thank you for this. I have a very old oil-fired boiler (albeit I’m told a very reliable one) and only need the Nest to control the heating (water is on Economy 7).

I know it’s an old setup and someone with lots of money (!) would change it, but we’ve had no issues. It would be nice to have the convenience of turning the heating on/off remotely - hence the Nest.

Re TRVs - I did read that Nest is compatible with the Energenie just the other day… https://www.theheatinghub.co.uk/smart-radiator-valves-product-and-compatibility-guide
 
You need power, call for motorised valve and on/off (T1 and T2). Hence why Eric said better locating the junction box. Or put the heatlink in place of Danfoss, and use usb for powersource to thermostat. If it’s too much, then suggest something like Hive - completely wireless thermostat, wired receiver, if you mean control by phone. If not then there’s other wireless thermostats available.
 
Re TRVs - I did read that Nest is compatible with the Energenie just the other day
I have Energenie TRV heads, if I link the TRV to Nest when I change the temperature of Nest with the app it also changes the TRV, but it does not change TRV when it is a programmed change, or when using the dial, so in real terms rather useless.

Also really you want the TRV to tell Nest what to do, not Nest tell the TRV what to do, so rather useless.

So I just program schedules on both Nest and Energenie to compliment each other, but could do that with eQ-3 heads at a fraction of the price.

It is down to location, the area with wall thermostat needs to cool faster than other areas, so it will be calling for heat when other areas need heating, you can trim the lock shield valve and TRV to set heating so the area with wall thermostat is last to reach target temperature, but that is only good when heating up to start with, once at temperature it is the cooling which is important, the area with wall thermostat needs to be the fastest area to cool.

So living room has open fire, so wall thermostat can't go there, plus outside doors which are used, kitchen the same outside door and alternative heating, and the dining room is seldom used, plus outside door, so what it needs is multi-thermostats.

The simple way is a demand for heat system, where the TRV head tells the wall thermostat to turn on even if the room it is fitted in is warm enough, this is what Hive, Evohome, Wiser etc do, odd one out was Nest, which worked the wrong way around, but when google took over nest the withdrew support for working with Energenie, I thought Nest would bring out their own TRV heads, as Hive did, but as yet nothing.

I bought Nest Gen 3 as one I had four Energenie MiHome TRV heads and I thought they would work with Nest, and there was a break in one wire of the triple and earth cable going from main house to where boiler is in the flat (was the garage) so wanted to be able to control DHW and CH with two wires, and the Nest Gen 3 could do that, so the wall thermostat is powered from those two wires, and also controls both DHW and CH with those two wires. Most the others would have relied on wireless only, so seemed a good idea, but the fact the TRV heads will not bring on the boiler has rather spoilt it.

However not really worth ripping out Nest and fitting Hive, Nest still works, even if not very good, and we want double glazing to be replaced, so feel we will put up with Nest for now, and then see how well it works once double glazing is replaced.
 
I have a very old oil-fired boiler (albeit I’m told a very reliable one) and only need the Nest to control the heating (water is on Economy 7).

It's unusual that you have a hot water cylinder, but it's not connected to the boiler. Are you sure about that? sometimes the cylinder is connected to the boiler but instead of being pumped, the water circulates naturally around the cylinder when the boiler is on.

The clue will be the number of pipe connections, if it's not connected to the boiler there will only be pipes to 'Cold Water In' and 'Hot Water Out' The connections to the boiler shown in the green box below will be missing.

unnamed.jpg


Assuming that the cylinder isn't connected to the boiler and although you don't say, it appears that the Danfoss timeswitch is probably the 103 model. If this is correct, then:

The red wire in DF 6 goes to Nest Heat link L
The blue wire in DF 5 goes to Nest Heat link N
Link Nest Heat link terminals L and 2 together
The yellow wire in DF 3 goes to Nest Heat link 3

Then the old thermostat needs to be decommissioned. This can be done by removing the Honeywell thermostat and linking the red wire in 1 and the yellow wire in 3 together. Isolate the blue neutral and earth wires separately.

The professional way to do this would be to find the origin of the cable going to the room thermostat, note where the wires are connected and then remove the entire cable. Then insert a link to join together the two terminals that the red and yellow wires have just been removed from so that they are electrically connected.

The Nest thermostat can be powered by connecting its terminals T1 & T2 to terminals T1 & T2 at the Heat link, or by using a separate plug in power supply.
 
Last edited:
  • Thanks
Reactions: CBW

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top